印加太陽島蜜月

上不了 Huayna Potosi 山頂看 Titicaca 湖，我們離開La Paz去了Copacabana近觀湖，同時打算在太陽島過兩三日。本來可以在秘魯的Puno看湖的其他島，但是在玻利維亞消費似終較平。所以便打算進入秘魯前多享受這個湖及南美較便宜的國家。

好不容易在La Paz找到往Copacabana的巴士，經過三小時的車程，其中還要整個巴士上了木伐在湖面上浮, 終於在夜晚到了Copacabana。初時不知怎樣找住的地方，終於在鎮中廣場遇到人介紹在市場附近的平價賓館 (hospitaje)。30玻紙 (港幣100也不到)的一間雙人房有電熱花 (但無上網無廚房) 算不錯，何況第二天便離開去太陽島幾天，這賓館還會看管行李幾天，很化算呢。第二天很晏起床, 買些水果和水 (預計在島上買這些東西會較貴), 就乘下午一時開出的小船往太陽島(Isla del Sol)進發。之前吃了一餐當地出名的鱒魚(tout)，這裏的魚大多是炸的，肉質還算嫰。太陽島馳名的地方在於她是印加文名的發源地。該民族在這世界最高海拔的湖上種田放牧捕魚，日益強大，進而佔領湖外地方，甚至遠達大半南美。
 

湖上沒有大浪，只是風吹起的小浪，最多只有三級，心想如果能克服把帆船長途跋涉運往湖的話，在湖上風帆也是很寫意的。我們坐在小船的頂部，在烈日下清爽的風迎面吹來，很舒服。沿途已經看到在大陸上的梯田，亦看到電纜從大陸伸延過海到太陽島，心想島上的生活在有電之下原始極都有限，而且差點忘記島周圍是淡的湖水，有水有電這幾天我們應該不會難過。約半小時候我們看到太陽島，其後是第一個古蹟Pilko Kaina, 這應該曾經是一個宮殿。約十五分鐘後到了要下船的大村 Yumani，我心想一到步便立刻參觀這剛才看到的宮殿遺址，才去找住的地方；怎料正要出發之際，才發覺在這世上海拔最高的湖及島走動也不容易，這裏平均高於三千五百米，走快一點都容易喘氣。況且經過之前較艱辛的行雪山，心態是在這小島優遊地玩幾日`，所以便沒有勉強自己，索性在這小鎮先找平的地方，再隨便走走算了。

我唔係駝馬,係一隻勤勞的驢仔,同我個仔

上岸已經看到小島山腰一層層的梯田，以前的島民建設引水道灌溉農地。然而在這大村的田大多被改建成旅館和食館，或有些已經被荒癈。這些田地是可以用來紥營，但今次我們一心來旅遊，就找了一間平宜的新旅館，無水無電，仍在建設中，但房間是新的，向海靚景，只收30玻紙(約港幣90元)。安頓好後就周圍走走，附近是一條驛道，驢仔隊都經過這裏運輸貨物來往碼頭和附近小村。我們往村外走，看到較多的田及有島民耕作，過着像其袓先千多二千年前的農耕生活。跟着我們找到一個較重要的水井，島上水源有限，除了在湖邊及溪邊的居民，住在山上的居民要靠驢仔送水，亦有居民來這裏洗衫。我亦在附近找到營地，面對平静的湖面和其後的雪山，這裏真的是露營的好地方。

天色漸黑，我們走到一間傳聞出名的鱒魚食館，較破費的吃了焗魚及魔鬼汁煮魚加鮮搾菠蘿汁(盛惠60玻紙, 算是高消費了)，便摸黑回旅館 (當然是沒有街燈)。當晚很大風，把島上的雲吹散了，我們可以看到滿天星星，但同時亦很寒冷。其實是回到旅館才知道無電和熱水，我們點着蠟燭，用些凍水抹抹身，在牀上看電影(用充滿電的電腦)就睡了。

早點就是要看日出，約七時我們在牀上看到太陽在湖的對岸雪山昇起，很美，很有來渡蜜月的感覺。當天早餐我們吃帶來的麵包及生果，便出發從島的南面走到北面。大部份是山腰路，所以不太吃力，但由於高原活動，老婆亦比較容易累。我們經過很多田，其實整個島漫山是梯田，看到當地居民簡樸的生活，也是很使我愉快的旅行活動。天很藍，雲很白，水也是藍，我們也看到用來運貨和當佈景板的駝馬。

路程中間經過收路費的小屋，雖然可以像我們看到的背包客般走遠一點避過那昂貴的路費(每人30)，但在旅遊的心態下，也不想斤斤計較，況且錢也是用在當地的建設上。

 

走過”海”灣再上山，看到海上那剛出發的帆船，很簡單的單桅三角帆，行上風很難，但在大風無浪的情況下也算是來往海灣的很好交通工具。可惜我們走快了，要不然我真想去找乘順風船的機會。六小時候我們到了Challa Pampa灣，找到一間價錢更平的環保賓館(只需20玻錢)，有電及共用厠所和廚房。所謂花灑是太陽曬熱的水倒在花灑的水箱罷了，而廚房的柴火爐裏有幾隻不知是取暖或迫關在這裏的葵鼠，我們所知的就是它們也難逃被吃的命運。當晚在村中找吃的，給我們找到麵包工場，在幾條街外也有其麵包香，而且很便宜，夠我們第二天的早餐了。

 

最後一天我們在離開前看位於鳥北部較大型的印加建築 Chincana，沿途看到兩個小孩帶一班羊上山吃草，我有幸抱起一隻跌落山的羊仔，很可愛。


說到Chincana，依山腰建築的宮殿也是壯觀。這是我們看到的第一個印加築。還未看Machu Piccu，我們已經被這島上遺址吸引，並期待之後所見的。

離開太陽島，帶着依依不捨的心情，希望下次來這裏露營，隨心想留多久就多久，探索島上更多地方。

We've got fined again! by corruptive Bolivian official - photo proof

Leaving Bolivia, on the way from Copacabana to Cusco, we passed the customs at Puno. When showing our passport with the custom form, the officer told us to complete a new form as the one we've kept is torn and broken on the edge. Alright, we filled it up and then he asked for TWENTY BOLIVIANO EACH! Adley tried to argue with him but no use. We have finished all Boliviano, except a few coins before leaving the country and he need to rush out for exchanging some money.


We then asked for a receipt after he chopped exit on our passport and the guy keep saying no. Another tourist helped us translate but the guy pretended not to listen and acted busy. Again, no receipt means no proof and means corruption.


Gosh! We've got robbed by another corrupting official again!


To kept ourselves safe, leaving the country in one piece and  able to catch the same bus, I rushed Adley away, to avoid more trouble.


Lesson to learn: keep your custom form nice, clean, neat and tidy to avoid giving them an excuse to fine you!

Our first day in La Paz enjoying the Gran Poder parade

Slept for a few hours, we woke up at 9am, made some breakfast and enjoyed a chat with Daltry, our host in La Paz.


He was kind and gentle, with an intense interest in people and pay much attention when talking with everyone. We enjoyed chatting with him. As a translator, Daltry also speaks excellent English. In fact, we are told there was not many translator in La Paz (and in Bolivia as well) and he was one of the few.


We took a walk at noon for the market and the annual Gran Poder, a big street parade, supposingly praising Jesus for his mighty power but turns out a 65 groups parade, showing off how rich people are by their expensive costume and getting drunk until 3am. Daltry was not interested in the event and he stayed home for rest and work.


When the minimum wage in Bolivia is B$1000 per month, those fancy costume at Gran Poder cost at least US$500 and took long time to handmade.


We walked along Avenue Camacho and Avenida 16 de Julio for the parade, which was just one block away from where we stayed.

The road was blocked and there are chairs around the street. Groups danced and played instruments while walking down the slope. Hawkers were selling caps, food, beer all along the area and we managed to squeeze in the performance zone to walk along with the performers for a while, until we were stopped by the police.

It was a one-day-only performance, and performers danced with fancy costume, with music and drumming, people also grasped the chance to get drunk. It was rather ironic with its background of the parade celebrating the mighty power of Jesus. The costumes were fancy but the parade, frankly, was nothing compared to Sombodromo's in Rio.


We watched a while and tried to go to nearby market but they were all closed. We returned at 4pm and Adley managed to make some fried rice out of the kitchen resources. 

We head out at 6pm and Daltry showed us Mirador Killi Killi, a place that we are able to see views of the town,but need to walk slowly, first because the crowd ion Avenida 16 de Julio were still there, people were drinking and music were loud in the street, secondly, due to the altitude, it's 3800m above the sea surface here.

Buses in Bolivia

Not the first time, that it happened in Osorno and Santa Cruz. We bought a bus ticket one day ahead, told to arrive half an hour before and got our names marked on the seating plan, but turned out the bus was gone and we are allocated to another bus or brought to another bus company for another bus some half or one hour later. Our names are still on the list and it was not our handwriting, but it's still the same seat, luckily. The ride from Santa Cruz to Trinidad, we got 'upgraded' to cama of another company without paying the difference. (B$80 vs B$120)

Buses are always not on time, it's either leaving early or way late.

All bus terminal need to pay tax or a fee of B$2-5, when you take a long distance bus. There are usually gate with security guard and you can't get away by sneaking in.

Even if you paid the terminal fee, toilets in the terminal still charge B$1-2 each person.

We paid B$150 for a 12 hours bus ride from Trinidad to Rurrenabaque, the 'bus' delayed for 2 hours and we ended up taken to back of a truck, sitting among the cargo and stuck in the the middle of nowhere waiting for a ferry to cross the river.

Buses in town are much more convenience. They are called micros, usually some recycled Japanese vans or some very old small bus. Costing around B1.3-2, not a lot of space for huge backpack but clearly indicate destinations in front and can be stopped anywhere.

Stuck in Sapecho

After the 2 days jungle tour, we got our bus tickets to La Paz for the festival on 2 June.


It was an all day parade to celebrate Señor Jesús del Gran Poder, supposingly in honor of 'lord the great power', but turned out to be showing off how rich you are with the fancy costumes and getting drunk all day long.
 
One hour delay, we finally see our bus in the Rurrenabaque bus terminal. It was already 10pm. Good to see that it's really a bus not a cargo van nor truck, but a real tour bus, so we would be able to lie down on our own seat.


The seat, however, was not that comfortable, I was able to lie down in some 120 degree but there was no place to stretch my legs. Under the seat in front was blocked and there was also a panel on the side, so I was unable to stretch my legs on the aisle neither.


The road was quite bumpy, we were throwing up and down, right and left all night long. I felt more like a roller coaster than a bus and was holding Adley's hand tight, with the thought of a YouTube death bus ride that our Chilean friend once mentioned. A bus driver somewhere in Bolivia was driving on a narrow mountain road, and ask the passengers all went down, knowing the risk. But then he ended up falling into the valley.



It was dawn and we arrived in a small village, Sapecho. The bus stopped. We thought it was a toilet break, but we found there was a chain barricading the road, with a sign saying, 'Atencion: Corte de Ruta 0600-1600 Lunes a Sabado', 'Corte' means cut or disengagement...which is bad. Are they really closing the road for a whole day!? We just arrived at 6:30am and if only the bus had not delayed, we might catch their curfew. We now need to wait 10 hours doing nothing.

We saw some passengers and driver surrounding the road workers, discussing and then a lady exclaimed that 'i have a job!' but seems nothing could be done, we have to wait! Everyone then scattered in the small village, when some shops was opening, people bought some mandarin, toothbrush, toothpaste and had breakfast. The workers who took care of the chain, only let cars into the town but not out.


We had some breakfast and tried to watch a movie on the computer, but suddenly music on the bus was turned on...it was only 8:40am, more hours to go. And the music stopped again. And on. We kept watching a magician version of Romeo and Juliet, 'The Illusionist' with our headset.


Then, we decided to take a walk to town and around. We checked with the driver, who confirmed we could only move at 4pm, so we start walking.


We found a phone to call our CS host in La Paz about the delay, then found a pharmacy and got some mosquito repellent (the bites from the jungle and these few days are so itchy and its now swollen), then a store for juice and settle down writing our blog. This gonna be a quiet and relaxing afternoon. We was 15 minutes walk away from the bus, hope it won't suddenly leave us.


We returned at around 1:15pm and other passengers said we could have left at 12:30pm but was waiting for us. We rush to the bus and everyone said 'Vamos! Vamos!' (Let's go!) only to find that there are a few more passengers yet unreturned.


We strolled to a nearby store to have a quick fried chicken rice with banana and potato. (B$11). We were chatting with a Japanese from Brazil who could only speak Spanish and Portuguese. He was interested in Chinese eating frog and snake. Then a family of 3 returned finally and we rushed back to the bus.


We left at 2:30pm eventually, but only after 7 minutes, we are stuck on a bridge again. A stone was blocking the road and the workers have to move it away when we could move on.


Just another 1km, the bus stopped again, the construction was blocking the road, it was eventually at 4pm that they clear the block and let us go again. (AT: even the truck before us could pass the previous gate at 11:30am but it still had to wait here till 4pm, I would rather wait in the town with food and juice instead of at the middle of nowhere).


At 6pm, we arrived a town named Caranavi and was told we could have dinner until 8:30pm! It's a small town, with all the eatery or street food located near the bus station, apart from a few pharmacy and telephone cente, there was nothing much to see. We strolled around and went to two different restaurants to have beef soup and barbaque sausage rice and enjoyed using their toilet. (public toilet always cost B$1 or more). Then we strolled around again and ended up drinking coconut juice at a street stroll of the plaza. Finally, we went back to the bus to start off again.


It waited so long in order to get more passengers in Caranavi and they did got a few more.


Eventually we arrived La Paz at 3am, which took us 30 hours to get there!


We got on a taxi, woke our host Daltry at 4am to let us in his house, that's very nice of him for not minding that and was always friendly and helpful, with the help of the porter calling his mobile for us. We finally got a nice hot shower and a warm shelter and slept just an hour before dawn.

Santa Cruz, Bolivia

An overnight bus from Sucre, we arrived Santa Cruz bus terminal.


Our host, Rafael, suggested us taking a taxi to his place. As he said, going downtown was only B$18.


The town was in a circular zone system and Rafael's apartment in city centre was actually in zone 1.


We arrived at around 7am, rang the bell and no one answered. After a while, we quited. We left our backpack in the lobby and went for a walk in the neighborhood.


We found a wet market with food stores selling fish soup, pescaderia with huge fish cut into fillets, a few vegetable and fruit stalls, some shoes repair and clothes repair stalls and food stall selling yogurt with fruit salad, fresh juice, fresh empanadas, bread, coffee and tea. The fish soup costing only B$10 was so great! The meaty river fish goes well with the finely chopped parsley and spring onion. They goes with yucca, corn and lemon. We also had a small jug of fresh papaya juice, then coffee and empanadas. We are very glad to fill our stomach with all cheap local breakfast stalls. And I'm able to get my torn pant repair with B$10.


We returned to the apartment and found the guys just woke up.


Rafael is a 5th year medical student from Brazil, who lived with 2 others schoolmates. Eduardo is of the same year and Ricardo is in 4th year. We appreciate their hospitality despite their examination week.


We took care of ourselves by visiting the markets, museums and planning a 3d/2n trip to Samaipata, a serene town 2-3 hours away from Santa Cruz, which is close to Amboro National Park, with the hope that we could find cheaper ways to hike there on our own.

we came across the Bolivian pageant events for the sponsor of the crown

We checked a few travel agencies, which offer Amboro National Park trips for its South and North part. The unique climate make the North park a tropical forest, with trees and forest and a variety of birds, while the south part with more mountain, waterfall and subtropical setting. A 3d/2n trip cost over B$1000 each. The more joining, the cheaper. But we found no companion, so we searched more information and found that Samaipata would be a near and accessible town by public transport.


Our first two days in Santa Cruz was walking around town. We had lunch with the 3 Brazilian guys in a food court of a shopping mall, having churrasco, barbecue beef with rice and other assortments. Then, we went for a walk in downtown.


In the central area, there is the plaza and church. And the tourism information centre, along with some museums.


We stayed in an unusually tall building in Calle Cuellar, which is nearby the Los Pozos market. There are 2 more plazas around town.


We reached the museum, Museo Ethno-Folklórico in park El Arenal near Los Pozos market and found its closed and workers are bringing in logs. We don't know I'd it's under renovation or changing to something else.


Actually, we don't have much luck in Santa Cruz, except the unforgettable fish soup and nice, cheap fresh fruit juice. We visited the modern art museum on Sunday, which said it will be opened at 3pm-6pm on Sunday, when we reached there at 11:30am. We hanged around in the market and Central for some fruit juice and icecream, returned and found that the door was locked.


The first night, we made some Chinese fried rice for the guys. Eduardo prepared shisha after dinner and we had a good time chatting. (hope we haven't disturbed their study)


The second night, we visited a restaurant, Casa del Camba, recommended by Rafael and LP, which is famous for local specialties and parrilla. We reached there are only found groups and groups of tourist. It's a nicely furnished restaurant, with live music and a 2 person parrilla set, beer and a jug of chicha (local alcohol brewed by corn) cost us a total of B$144. Not too bad for tourist price, but the barbecue plate was composed of not thoroughly washed grilled kidney, liver, intestines (still keeping the unpleasant odor of beef) and there was only 1 piece of steak and 1 piece of sausage.

We spent 3 days in Samaipata and returned on Saturday to join Rafael birthday party. They started a barbecue in the roof top from mid day, while Ricardo was the chef. It goes on all day with beer, whiskey and nonstop jugs of caipirinha. The guys are all trashed and we managed to sneak out buying bus ticket for the next day. Being too old to party overnight, we see the young ones off at 1am, guys refreshed in shirt and pants, girls in full makeup and dazzles heading for pub to dance the night away.


A little more walk around town, we left on Sunday late afternoon. The house was still a little chaotic for the maid to sort it out, probably on Monday.


Good luck to the guys on their exam week and we are happy to join a great birthday party celebrated in Brazilian style.