好抵玩嘅告路架國家公園

由於呢個國家公園太多人寫，好多係英文，所以用英文寫博文有啲平凡，或者用廣東話寫比較親切。我諗唔係好多香港人好似我哋咁可以平價去南非睇野生動物，其實safari嘅意思係去遠行，同睇動物可以無關。

喺基督農場做咗兩個禮拜義工，比得兩夫婦帶我哋、另外兩個英國女仔同德國女士，到南非東北部告路架國家公園參觀。聽講喺南非國家公園睇動物比其他非洲國家睇更貴，我哋經過坦桑尼亞一役有啲擔心。誰不知比得自己楂車入場，我哋只需要俾入場費、紥營費、分擔入油費同食物就掂，佢唔會賺我哋錢，只為開開心心玩三日兩夜。

第一日天未光我哋六點出發，從Pafuri閘入公園，沿途我哋食零食飲茶飲咖啡，以佢哋兩夫婦各精於茶及咖啡，我哋不愁無好嘢飲。天色不太好，天陰又落兩，朝早無乜動物睇，只係喺湖邊嘅觀鳥屋睇到鱷魚。下午見到多啲，有美麗嘅釣魚翁、

好多鹿、水牛等，令我哋興奮嘅係睇到其他國家較少睇到嘅河馬。我哋喺條橋下睇到大大小小嘅河馬。大嘅喺水度調情交配，細嘅喺度互咬同玩。睇到我哋唔捨得走。

快天黑，呢度有規則要下午六點前入營地，否則要罰錢。點知駕車喺中間俾地羣大水牛圍，佢哋對我哋有啲唔友善，仲有一隻阿頭走過嚟凶我哋。我哋曾經聽過有大象因為俾汽車引擎騷擾而將一架車變成癈鐵，為免俾成班有架車咁大嘅大水牛撞埋嚟，我哋要將熄引擎，到適當時候才慢慢離開。到達營地已經六點半，好彩管理員網開一面俾我哋入。

喺Mopani營地我哋見到有小鹿入離搵嘢食，我地帶咗營，其他人住簡單嘅營屋。當晚我哋燒烤食牛肉飲南非紅酒，營地電網出面我哋見到野狗望住我哋食嘢。當晚落雨，睇嚟第二日天色都唔係好...




第二日朝早出發見到野狗喺路邊坐喺度 (等我哋?), 跟住打橫喺我哋車前面行過, 原來佢真係陀背! 佢當我哋你到咁施施然地行。我發覺呢到啲動物唔似坦桑尼亞嗰啲咁怕人，仲會帶攻擊性，唔老嚟就凶過來，果然充滿獸性。
 
啲長頸鹿可能因為素食比較溫馴啲，都會怕下人。 而森巴嘅好朋友野豬就較好奇，特別係細嗰啲，鍾意望我哋，要阿爸叫到先肯走。

 呢度啲大象比較珍貴，每隻都有名，會有管理員經常追蹤。喺營地有大象博物館，紀錄各大象資料包括點生點死。我哋喺早上見到一隻較年輕活潑嘅象，而我哋都會熄引擎，費事激到佢。


 下午天色明朗啲，我哋較多見到一羣羣嘅動物，包括鹿、駝鳥等。見得唔少，我哋都見怪不怪，少咗一份當初睇嗰陣時嘅興奮。我只想睇到從未見過嘅大豹及獵豹，搵咗成個下午都搵唔到。唯有收兵，第三日再搵。

第三日早上搵極都搵唔到未見過嘅動物。正當失望而回之際...

居然俾我哋喺一個鐘頭內見到獅子(雖然比較遠)、獵豹(佢喺草叢伸個頭出嚟，真係好難發現到)同好近咁睇到大豹。

 隻大豹啱啱捉咗隻鹿，拖咗上路邊大樹度食。我哋做好近咁睇哂。

懷住滿足嘅心情離開，仲要俾我哋睇到另一隻大象走過嚟(同我哋講拜拜?)，但又好似來者不善。為安全起見，我哋都係熄引擎，等佢行過先走。

番到農場已經晚上八點，呢次睇動物旅程同以往唔同，又平又抵又好玩多動物睇。三日兩夜每人只係一千港元包飲食包住，邊度搵?

但係慳埋慳埋到最後喺開普敦俾人呃番，容後再講。

小心成為埃及騙子盜賊提款機

在埃及各城，尤其遊客區，每次離開機場、車站、或經過碼頭、古跡、巿集，總會被一群「售貨員」包圍。被日語、普通話或韓語問候，（對不起！你們全估錯了！）然後硬推的士、帆船、馬車、三輪電單車服務、或旅館、食肆、紀念品不等。當你說，不用了，謝謝，他們會充耳不聞，繼續硬銷。最常用的對白係，「好平喎，你估下幾多錢 ？」一天聽十幾次，其實都幾好笑。有幾次仲有馬車話免費！

 

有緣在埃及認識了不少亞洲旅客，有大陸內地的，有台灣的，也有韓國的。大家不約而同的互相警告說，如在街上遇上英文了得的本地人，便要特別小心！

不只一次，在坐公共小巴、三輪電單車或買東西時，若司機或老闆不善英語，總會有一位路人甲出現，代當時人講價。這種「街上即時傳譯員」總會將價格提高一點，從中取利！

可以做的，唯有多做功課，先看旅遊書的價錢作參考，價問三家，再由一折開始大膽講價，可能的話，學兩句阿拉伯語加上手語及用寫的直接只與當時人講價。不用理會路人甲、乙、丙。

因不想成為水魚，我們堅決拒絕乖乖的付外國人價，每天小心翼翼、秒秒議價，實在累斃了。

聽說，在開羅金字塔區坐駱駝，一輪千辛萬苦的議價後，駱夫又會在半路停下，坐地起價，並要求索取駝夫、助手、助手的助手的貼士，沒完沒了。

我們初到開羅，想買電話咭，便在巿中心，開羅博物館附近找電話公司，一英語流利（危險！）的中年男子在路上問我們是否要幫忙，我們婉拒，但他堅持說，「放心，不收錢的，埃及人其實很友善嘛！況且，女士你長得跟我太太很像；先生你的小鬍子也像埃及人，特有親切感。」我們想，只是帶路到電話公司上台，也騙不到什麼錢，便隨他走。我們本想去品牌專門店，但好心先生卻領我們到了一家類似先達的小店。繼而搶著議價，不讓我們與店員直接對話。唉！又上當了！價錢比我們所知的高出十倍。我們調頭便走。他還在後面還價呢！

稍後，可靠埃及朋友告訴我們，電話咭還是到品牌店買比較靠得住，街頭電話店最多只適宜買增值咭。

又有一次，我們在舊開羅區遇上一埃及人，英語流利（危險！）但十分友善的說自己與我們同路，正在回家，可順路帶我們走折徑，並介紹我們到附近一些必到名勝，不收錢的，叫我們放心。我們一起走了近二十分鐘，路上他說他下月結婚，若我們仍在開羅，歡迎我們參加他的婚禮。他更從口袋，拿出未婚妻的照片給我們看，並說要交換電郵，好讓他寄結婚日的照片給我們看。一路走著，他說要帶我們到藍清真寺，更說寺內有一高㙮，居高臨下，是看日落及四處景色的好地方。入寺有建議收費而高㙮另須收費，也是為區內兒童的教育、醫療謀福利的。（我們心想，開始不妥）其實，我們前幾天已到過清真寺區，建築甚獨特，但已看個飽了，並不想再看。況且，很多清真寺也是免費參觀的，要花錢的高㙮也去過一個了。但見他善心滿載的樣子，還是跟著他走。到了他所謂的藍色清真寺（好像跟旅遊書的有點出入），寺算是中小型，亦有點破舊。好心先生帶了我進寺內的辦公室，叫我在箱中捐款。我覺得難以拒絕，給了一點零錢，但我們並沒有興趣參觀。他便說，我帶你走了好一段路，看，我一臉是汗，請給我點什麼吧！喂，先生，你不是說不要錢，又剛好順路的嗎？我說，那給你支原子筆吧！他拒絕我的小心意...終於說，我結婚缺錢呢！

真的假的？！方法較有創意，還是在拿導遊費。在他的叫嚷聲下，我倆急歩離開現場。

幸好，此類騙導遊費的人物沒有多大攻擊性，亦不會跟蹤我們。順利脫險！

另一次，在艾夫（Elfu），一個阿斯旺（Aswan）與六合所（Luxor）之間的小鎭看完一神廟古蹟，剛好遇上一大群小朋友放學，相信他們少見外國人，最初由興奮異常的前來跟我們握手，漸漸變成一大群的前後族擁，再演變成拍手臂、踼大腿，場面愈發失控。有一個見義勇為的十來歲小朋友為我們護航，亦有路人幫忙喝罵。走了一小段路，我跑到一家影印店，向老闆娘問路。老闆娘即時先行喝罵開始過份的小人兒。因路上太多人圍觀，一馬車經過，車主顧著看熱鬧，撞上路上停泊的車，一時間弄致人馬翻。亂攪出一場小鎮風雲。我們剛好跳上公車，逃之夭夭。

又有朋友在阿斯旺的岸邊想上公共船渡河到象島，被騙上了一艘私家船，開船才得知被騙，進退兩難，只好老大不願意地付上十倍價錢。雖然埃及物價偏低，但狠狠的被騙還是心有不甘。

亦是阿斯旺巿集，有小販推銷絲巾，蓋一下路人的面，蓋一下背包，再添一下踫撞，老公及兩位同行台灣女生的背包通通被打開了。幸好，他們眼明手快，大聲喝止，幸保不失。

好像將埃及說成危機處處，立入禁止之地，但她的遠古歷史、在聖經古籍中的地位、古蹟之多，實在是一個寶地。在我們一年多的旅程中，埃及亦是數一數二物價最低廉的地方。只好說生活艱難，令窮人無可奈何而已。不得不說，我們在開羅、阿斯旺、象島、六合所、阿力山大、海格特也有遇上真心相對，不心計的好埃及人。如我們不是背包客，只是遊客心態，不計價錢，只為盡興，可能會玩得舒服點，像旅遊書說，畢竟要接受他們國民的平均收入較旅客的祖國低，因此，同一件貨物或服務有不同的預想價值也是合理不過。只要是你認為的目標價便是好價錢，高處末算高。

再者，值得欣賞的是，與埃及人議價後，他們定必講口齒，就算要找續，他們也會如實交貨，如數找換。總比在大陸那種騙財騙貨的情況好。相對，亦因議價的空間大，會議價的，撿到便宜也不定！

The tiger woman in Verona

 
We were so happy to find Katell as our couchsurfing host in Verona. On the first day she brought us around the city. Quite hungry after the visits. we found it difficult to get good and cheap food in the old town. We passed by a Christmas market, in which a German sausage bun with sauerkaut sold six euro and turned us away. Manu took us to try our first panini, which was just a piece of kabab bread with ingredient of choice. It was not cheap. Mine with salami ham with cheese cost four euro, which gave better food in Hong Kong, where as local we know good and cheap gourmet. French Katell did not like that fast food. I understand that (as Chinese I shared that too but I was too hungry). After the meal we saw an old city gate. Then Katell drove us to her home.

She kept saying that it was a small home but to us it was big enough for a family of four. It even had a garden. There we met her two puffy cats, which are also new to the home (3 months). I made some dinner, shared her interest of vintage car and her work in printing company for fashion catalogue. Personally I enjoyed her car magazine and her interest of vintage car. There was even a vintage car parade trip from Milan to Rome and back. It could be fun to do so. Maria was more interested in the printing work. The catalogue was indeed very beautiful and in high quality. Manu had to work at night in a restaurant and missed our dinner. I made stir-fired vegetable noodle with sour sauce. 



After dinner, Katell was so kind to take us see Verona night. We latter knew that she had a very busy week of work and was a bit exhausted, thus were touched by her hospitality. We saw the nightline of the old city. It is beautiful.
I am satisfied with the jumping star out of the Colosseum photos

 
That night we also went for a small milonga. We became the youngest couple there. The DJ was terrible and did not keep us long. That ends our first day in Verona.

Hot spring in a castle : An relaxing afternoon in rainy Sirmione

Feeling so comfortable couchsurfing in a farmhouse in Paitone, it is not easy to leave for a day trip. We pushed ourselves because hotspring really attracts us. It was a raining Wednesday and we walked downhill on a trail which turned to a stream. Our shoes were all wet but with hotspring in mind we did not care much our wet feet. With some efforts we went to nearby tobacco store to buy bus ticket (otherwise we had to pay 1 euro more than the 1.9 euro bus trip) to Rezzato and then switched to another bus (there we had to pay 1 euro more because we found no tobacco store around) to Sirmione.

 

It is a long peninsula on the lake of Garde. The cute small castle greeted as at entrance and after that we were on a closed peninsula on the lake. The lake water was so blue. A pity that it rained otherwise it should be quite difficult. I can imagine that in summer the small castle on the lake would be very beautiful. We sneaked into the castle to look around while the entrance fee should be 4 euro each.

After continuing our “one gelato a day”, we went around the peninsula on the coast. It was windy and cool. We went to the tip and found the Roman ruin of wealthy residence. The entrance is another 4 euro. We saw that was only an outdoor ruin and there was no sun. So we skipped it.

We walked back and found the only hotspring center on the tip of the peninsula. The Aquaria Termal Wellness Centre costs 27 euro each for 3 hours use of all the hot pool, with effervescent beds, hydromassages, vascular paths and aromo-chromatic showers.The price was fine for us, so we just used the hotspring but not the additional massage service (which cost 80 euro for 50 minutes of spa treatment, which was a bit expensive). We made full use of three hours to try all the facilities, especially the hydromassage, which I saw no difference from a spa massage treatment.

When we left it was getting dark and we took the bus to Brescia. Before we left we took some good night view of Sirmione castle town.

 

We were lucky to use the same tickets without buying new one as the driver let us in. A poor thing was that the driver was having such a good mood in the rainy day and it crashed to the back of a stopped car near to Brescia. In order to catch the time we walked for about ten blocks to the train station to be picked up by Erika.

It was such a relaxing time in Sirmione and within the castle wall there was so much to see and also the hot spring behind.

挪威大石臺 Preikestolen

離開Tyssedal到Odda，已經天黑，其實只不過是黃昏六時，我們急急買過食物，便在一間油站外截順風車往南向”石臺”(Preikestolen)進發。我們舉起牌，很多車經過，很多司機留意我們，但都走過，等了一小時還是無起息，心想等到九時都無車，就到對面的戶外停車場找片草地紥營煮飯。怎料我們正想這樣做之際，一個媽媽駕車接我們二十公里南面的小鎮 Skare (我想這還好, 至少也是要道，繼續爬車也方便)。後來Anne還提議我們在她家裏留一夜，恭敬不如從命，況且天氣寒冷，天黑車輛愈來愈少，又不知會否能當晚上車。她很好客，曾招呼不少經過的背包客。我們去到她舒適的家，在她廚房煮晚飯，了解家庭生活。她的三個兒子逐一離家，而她只在夏天經營附近的紀念品店，對於將來只有兩老在家感到唏噓。她很想和丈夫在後者退休和兒子離家後到處旅行，但又不想放下舖頭，而丈夫又有風濕不能呆在野外太久。我們提議她想想駕車旅行，還開玩笑說我們可以幫忙開舖呢(如果回港後找不到工作的話)。她很喜歡喝茶，我想想可以寄些普洱給她。

第二天(星期三)我們近中午才出發，Anne送我們出去乘巴士，巴士費很貴，但如果不付錢坐車，就不能在星期四或之前到Preikestolen，要坐順風車還有二三百公里，而且這裏的人好像不太熱衷載人。既然我們在Sandnes找到人住，我們決先去那兒，星期四再出發，去不到大不了在Stavenger觀光一天。Martin和她的姐姐是斯洛法克人來這裏工作發展，我們在這裏第一晚煮了餐焗雞翼、甜酸蝦和炒飯，吃得我們滿肚腸肥。第二天乘車和船，有些轉接地回Stavenger -> Tau -> Jorpeland -> Josund。如果是夏天就不需那麼轉接了，現在已經是季尾，交通班次不密。

季尾的好處是人不多，如果是夏天旺季上山的路便塞得水洩不通，原來單程兩小時也要三小時以上。Anne和Martin都不約而同擔心季尾可能下雪出路難行。不理會了，現在已經在路上，下巴士還要再行車路個多小時才到達兩小時路程的山路開端。同行還有一個在巴黎做事的北京女人，後來我們要趕車要快上山，就抛離她，況且我們還可以截順風車免了這段較悶的上山車路。

從車路轉山路，去的路真的花了兩個多小時，當中試過迷路，也碰見來自香港的學生，她們在山腳青年宿舍住了前一晚，今天出發。中途下雪，有些大風有些寒，石路很清楚，但也濕滑。我們也因找路吵了一頓，就算最後找到石臺也心情盡失。 在寒風中吃過三文治，拍幾張照(我不捨得走，蹓蹥多久，在大石臺上不敢向下望，直落五百米就是海了，風又大，怕被吹下去，但實在壯觀，不久就下山趕車了。

下山時雪也下得密，我們失了最後往碼頭的巴士，只有沿高速公路截順風車。好運地我們分別截了輛Audi跑車到Ornes(那兒我們在關門的遊客中心看到三文魚場及一輛由一榮升媽媽駕的車(後者還參與建築Martin所住公寓的工程，世界真少)回Sandnes。

回Sandnes得開心，還有時間購物，為老婆買了新的行山褲，我們亦買了一條2.5公斤的大鱒魚回家焗。

第二天晨咁早三時起床坐四時半巴士(因為平, 249kr一位,還有免費上網和報紙)回Bergen，結束這五天的尋石之旅，目標達成，而且所費不太高。在挪威旅行太貴了，坐一程城內巴士單程也要44kr (約HKD60)，吃就不敢奢望在餐館吃(動輒幾百元一餐午飯，而且只是快餐)。雖然如此，這裏的大自然實在太美，我們玩得樂而忘返。

Honduras immigration, I am so confused ...

Border Crossing: Nicaragua to Honduras

We checked the BNO official site and found Honduras is visa free to travel by BNO. We entered the country via Nicaragua crossing border through Canos Blanca and was able to enter the country just by paying some tax of Lp 60 each, with receipt.

Then we leave the country via Puerto Cortes to Belize by boat.  The staff at the Honduras immigration told us that we need a visa to enter Honduras (so why are we already here?) and he read us a table of requirement, proofing that the we need a visa.  The document is a list of visa requirements for various countries, that looked the same as the one we found from the Guatemala visa requirement page on their government official site earlier, (we found no such list on the Honduras official site!?).  The list is just a few page of printed paper, without headline.

Immigration Office at the Fishermen Market, Puerto Cortes, Honduras

We kept asking him if we need a visa to enter your country, how come we were already inside.  We showed him the tax we paid when we entered Hondorus and told him he should check with his colleagues on the other side of the border instead.  He made some calls and insisted that we need to pay US$30 each before leaving the country, otherwise, he will retrieve our passport and put us to jail! (this country don't have justice and order and will put people to jail right away!? -probably yes, they don't!)

Well, any country has the right to interpret and change their entry requirements, we have no choice but pay.

We are requested to photocopy our passport and the entrance form page (where on hell is the photocopier in the fish market?) but he asked the ferry staff to do that for us, no charge. We just waited in the office. Fine, as long as the boat was going to wait for us.

Then we asked for a receipt, the officer said we need to go to the bank to pay to get a receipt, we asked where, he said downtown, which is 20mins away! (and the boat is leaving any time!) We kept bugging him as said, if we pay here, we should get a receipt!  Then he said they could only issue receipt in downtown office if we insist. (Now what, Mister? Bank or office?)

Anyhow, he knew our boat was leaving any time and he gave every dumb reason in the world for not giving a receipt - that we all know why.

Well, we have no choice but to pay US$60 and the money went to the safest place right away - his shirt pocket.

Off we go, on a boat to Belize City

Then, we were set free!

Anyway, we are safe and sound now.

Hot Spring in Colombia

After waking up in our host little farm (with a horse, a duck and a bunch of chickens) in Pereira, we made some arepa (corn cake), juice and played with the 3 months old energetic little black cat, we set off to Santa Rosa Termales.


(Note: termales is hot spring, but tamales is typical local food, corn flour dough wrapped by corn ear and steamed, with chicken and meat inside, taste and looks like Chinese rice dumpling).


We reached the bus terminal by bus, then found a van heading Santa Rosa de Cabal, an one hour scenic ride to the countryside. From somewhere near the market, we caught a chiva (amusement park kind of bus with long wooden bench seats and need to climb up from one side), which cost us COP$2500 each (HKD 12). .


The chiva drove pass the plaza as well, guess it would be easier to find from there. We just saw it on the street and ran to catch it.


After almost 45 minutes ride, passing a lot of hostels and restaurant promoting their chorizo santarosana, (which I really wanted to try) we arrived a termales, which looks like a theme park. Costing COP$30,000 each.


The driver told us the returning chiva will be 4pm and it was already 1pm. Wanting to find something cheaper, Adley insisted walking on. It was a wide rocky path uphill and after 15 minutes, we arrived a hotel complex with hotspring.


It cost us COP$40,000 (even more expensive) but we were attracted by the fact that we could pay credit card (with better rate than our ATM cash) and the termales got some very nice waterfalls of hot water faling to the pool!


We checked that there will be a return bus at 7pm, costing only COP$1,200@ back to Santa Rosa town and thought we could just soak in the pools for the whole afternoon! So, we entered!


The hot spring was wonderful! Though there was only one big pool for spa guests, it was wonderfully set next to the cool waterfall. And on the other side, another artificial waterfall that gave hot water. In addition, there were 3 others smaller pools for hotel guests only. I didn't know that and soaked in one of them and the staff told me apologetically that I should leave...errrr ok.


Those two waterfalls are really nice though, we could soak in the hot water, then get the refreshing waterfall shower for a change.


They got massage service and catering as well, some guests would be drinking cold beer, cola, icecream and having a head massage while soaking in the steaming hot pool.


We were a pair of poor backpacker with no money to enjoy such luxury. But, we went up to the source of the waterfall, which is really scenic. We also got some fresh cold water from the waterfall for drinking, which is equally refreshing. It was a 10 minutes mini hiking track but nice and quiet, with different kind of beautiful birds around.


Night fell. After soaking and resting in this little paradise of steam and heat for almost five hours, we caught the 7pm bus, occupied mostly by staffs. (Most locals came here by driving.)


The bus passed the town but not the central plaza. We were confused and waited till the last stop, however it was on the other side of the town of Santa Rosa. A taxi driver stopped us and told us that we better took a cab as it was dangerous to walk there at this time. We ignored his advise but walked rapidly across the valley. It was a long ten minutes walk, which felt like ages, but we managed to reach the main street safe and sound. We found a little shop that soldl chorizo with arepa. Our host in Pereira told us not to return without enjoying the sausages. And its the most famous chorizo in Columbia. It was very heavily marinated and rather salty. We managed to find a carnerceria and got some home to share with our couchsurfing host, Lina and her family.


Something interesting happened when we were in the small shop having chorizo con arepa, a young girl approached us, asked where we were from and said she wanted to show us something. She asked for my hand to tide a bracelet and asked me to make a wish before tiding. And said the wish will come true. A lot of south america normad were making those friendship knots to sell for money, but she seems to be friendly and I didn't know how to say no to her.


Then she asked, ' now you need to give me something, as exchange'. She wanted to give one to Adley too, which he refused. I was thinking to offer my single earring (which the other one was lost somewhere earlier) but Adley was quick in offering a bookmark from Ecuador and gave her a long beautiful description.


She smiled with thanks but folded to bookmark in her palm in no time! (oops! Sorry darling!)


Then a bunch of kids approached us selling some fruity ice in straw for COP$100@. We refused but they curiously surrounded us and wanted to know where we were from. We asked their names and wrote them the Chinese translation. They were crazy about traditional Chinese writing and request us to write on their arm like tatoo! Suddenly we were surrounded by them queueing up for the quick tatoo! It was so much fun.


Afterwards, we went elsewhere to eat grill pork in stick and a sauteed meatball with an egg inside. They were nice. It's a pity that we are short of cash to get some beer.


We caught a bus back to Pereira easily on the mainstreet and went home to grill the sausage with some potato, then went to salsa with Lina until middle of the night!


It was a salsa club with only salsa music and nothing else. We bought some aquardiente (Columbia alcohol with Anis, taste like herb or medicine and drink in a small shooter glass, straight) and local rum to get drunk and dance the night away!