Showing posts with label ruin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ruin. Show all posts

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Ruins other than Inca : Chan Chan




Chan Chan is a much larger and earlier ruin site than Machu Picchu. It is composed of so many structures including palaces and temples of the Chimor empire which was later conquered by Inca. The site was still being evacuated. We took a mini-bus from Trujillo downtown to the site. As we were back to the Pacific coast, the sky we saw was the same cloudy gloomy as it was in Lima. The first thing we saw was the high sand walls standing out of the deserted land. We kept walking around outside the walled city and saw workers evacuating the inhabitant areas outside the wall. Walking back to the main wall city, we were amazed by the vast structures, including a pone inside, and the different patterns (fish, bird, stairs etc).













Then we visited the museum. Before that we walked on among the fields and had been warned by a passing-by tour guide about the ease of robbery in that area. Luckily we were safe walking on the short-cut. In the museum, there were English descriptions about the Chimor civilization: their class system and cosmic views. They believed that they were the descendants of the four stars: those from the brighter two were in higher classes of noble people; those from minor two starts were of the common people and slave. In the beginning of time the world was in complete darkness. There were four divine characters in confrontations, when the light was created. The two main characters were Rem (the order, represented by the moon) and opponent Ramar (the chaos, represented by central star of the constellation of Orion). The latter was crude and gross, the other three organized themselves against him. Rem illuminated the darkness and became the moon. The trio decided to create human and Ramar was against that, then the opposition between Ramar and Rem continued. With creation of human, for permanent presence of light, Rem created Han (the sun). The process of creating human occurred when Rem the Moon God sent his fertilizing liquid to Nii (sea) through the previously mentioned four stars. When Taicanamo, the founder of the dynasty of Chimor kingdom, came to the land from the sea, enlightenment occurred. He directed the immigrant from marine to the beaches on the Moche Valley, placed a stone representing Rem his lord and father. Chan Chan was founded; the cosmic order was defined and the Chimor dynasty began.

 After Chan Chan, we went to a Chimor temple near the Trujillo downtown. La Huaca Esmeralda contained better patterns on the walls that were not re-created as Chan Chan and showed better originality. We also saw the Peruvian hairless dogs, of which the body temperature is higher than normal dogs and therefore it was used traditionally as body-warmer for people with arthritis. We ended the Chimor journey with our first trial of Peruvian beer and less costly cheviche (after much diarrhea and flu in earlier part of Peru trip).








Wednesday, June 20, 2012

聖者河谷之旅


印加聖者河谷(Valle Sagrado de los Incas)是指連媽珠別珠在內的一連串印加古蹟,它們位於Cusco之上游河谷,兩旁的山包括N.Veronica (7682m)、N.Chicon (5200m)、N. Sahuasiray (5777m) 及對面的 N. Salcantay (6271m)、N.Umantay (5917m)。 當中的古蹟比媽珠別珠還要久, 規模亦遜於後者。

當我們去較馳名的媽珠別珠之前,便到了Ollantytambo。這是一個守護下游Cusco的要塞,河谷至這兒是最狹窄,這個古蹟的規模也很壯觀。沿山而建的梯田,用雕琢過的大石建成的太陽廟、宮殿、及水道令我嘆為觀止。有些可惜的是由於之前車程的擔誤,我們只有兩小時去參觀,至最後只有急急地看過沿溪建設的水利設施。從溪流的水被引往石板砌成的地下水道進室內及田磯,再沖走至下游,結構非常緊密,可見印加古文明的先進。







遊完媽朱別朱後 (詳情看...),我們沒有即時回Cusco,反而留了一夜(可惜太夜又沒有在附近的溫泉設施浸一浸),第二天又一次沿火車軌 (當然不是沿路走 ),從另一方向往上游到水電站,跟着hitch-hike到Banos Termales,沿途山景也很美,然後和人家夾的士到Santa Teresa。在那兒吃過午飯,乘巴士到Urubamba,再迫小巴到Calca。天已黑了,便找了一間附設燒雞店的平價旅館住一晚,想着第二日找車到附近的溫泉浸浸。怎料第二日才知道車下午六時已開出,還要到遠遠的北部山區 (坐車也要兩時多),另一架車時下午四時開出,看來又要在那兒過夜。那就算了,我們乘巴士到Pisaq。上車之前,看到Calca當地的農產品節,看過當地出產的咖啡,及大班大班身穿鮮艷民旅服裝的當地女士來趕市集。

到了Pisaq,便打的士到當地的印加古蹟參觀,這也是一個要塞,沿山而建的梯田已例行的特色建築,這兒特別之處是山頂的軍事堡壘,再有沿山腰的小路穿過被鑿出來的隧道往山另一邊的太陽月亮廟,及供測量用的古代天文台。看了一整天,很滿足地沿小路下山回Pisaq, 再找車回Cusco。







其實當時還想到離Cusco很近的另外兩個古蹟 (Tamsomachay及Sacsayhuaman),先找個地方住再於第二天參觀的。巴士到了Tamsomachay才發覺黑夜了無人煙,世色不對便立即上車回Cusco. 第二天也再沒有回去,改在城裏走走算了。

這次聖者河谷之旅給我們看盡印加文明建築,覺得看夠了建築(其實是看膩了),但對其文化及生活還沒有了解,以為秘魯古文明就只有如此。 要到之後的 Trujillo 才看得更多更深入。 在此之前我們先到Lima吃喝及Huaraz行山。