Showing posts with label Huaraz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Huaraz. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Natural hot stone sauna in Chancos, Ancash region, Peru

After 4 days camping and hiking in the Santa Cruz trek, we longed for a bath.  Well, hot spring would be even better.

Arriving the finishing point in a small village of Caraz at around 11am, we saw a sign leading to a hot spring.

But our guide told us that it was 10km walk and there are actually more than one hot spring in the area. He recommended us to join the return tour bus for Huaraz and stop at Marcará on the way (then a short ride by taxi or collectivo, ie, a shared taxi or a minibus, to Chancos hotspring) or go back Huaraz and take a taxi to Monterrey hotspring, which is closest to Huaraz, about 7-10km away. And that Chancos is a more local bathing place, whereas Monterrey is more touristy and smaller.

While Monterrey hot springs has water reaching 49C, it was believed to be able to fight rheumatism, nervous affections and paralysis, among others illnesses.

Chancos on the other hand, is located in the middle of a valley, close to the Copa Mountain, at 2,800 m.a.s.l., 27km from Huaraz. With thermal fountains reaching 72C, there is a variety of small lagoons and vaporario, making up steaming hot caves believed to be cure for respiratory inflammations.

Another hot springs, at altitude 3,137 m.a.s.l. is Chavin, near to Chavin de Huantar, in the province of Huari, is 109km from Huaraz. It is said to be ideal for rheumatism and skin diseases.

We thought we could always take a day trip to Monterrey or Chavin the next day but it would be quite convenience to stop at Marcará along the way, which is 3km away from Chancos hot spring. Furthermore, we have never been to a natural sauna before, and were rather curious.

We requested our bags be delivered to the travel agency, pick up at dawn and we dropped off for the hot spring.

We asked our group in the bus if anyone interested. The Norwagian couple, Ingvild and Bjarne said yes. Great, we have companion!

And so, we arrived the small town, Marcará at noon, bought some banana as snacks and took a taxi to Baños Termales Chancos, arriving in only 10 minutes. It costs us 1.5 sole each. (while we were told that it should not be more than 1 sole - anyway, probably because we are tourist.)

Upon arrival, there were a lot of people - families, couples and tourists from Peru, mostly and we suddenly realized that it was Sunday!

We bought 2 different kinds of tickets, for the cave (5 soles each) and for private bath (2 soles each). But we don't know how to start.

There were in fact around 10 different rooms with natural steam cave and temperature indication ranging 35C to 95C. We have to choose one to queue up for. And people just sat outside the room to wait.

The notice outside the sauna room said 15 minutes maximum and there were 5-6 sitting before us BUT, we waited for 4 hours!!!



Well, there were people pop up from nowhere and had put bags on the bench earlier or communicated with the ones before and after them to look after their place. Being poor in Spanish, we had no clue and not sure who to ask, except finding the end of the queue, sat patiently and waited and waited and waited and waited...

Another issue is that, local interpreted the maximum time as 15 minutes per person, so if 2 people going in, they can bath for 30 minutes (if 6, they can have 1.5 hours! Crazy! I guess they will suffocate!)

After figuring out the system in about an hour, Adley and I waited in separate rooms, while Ingvild and Bjarne sat in another one.

The queue will help count time of the user and knock on the door or ring the bell furiously when it's time. Then, they will yell 'Aqua!' Staff will then show up with some hot water buckets and pour on the floor of the bathroom and place one bucket inside the room. We were not sure if it was meant for cleansing up the floor or steaming up the room.

Then, the couple before me finally got in, while starting my timer, I was ready to knock the door anytime and was carefully guarding against anyone who seems to have the intention to cut the queue. There were people who came sitting next to me, on the next-one-to-go bench instead of the long-queue bench on the opposite looking puzzled and unsure where is the end of the queue and another curious lady who tried to sneak in before me saying she just want to take a look!



Anyway, there came my 'aqua time'. (Actually banging on the door and yelling for 'Aqua' is kind of fun). I was so excitedly yelling 'Aqua!' when the couple finally finished their 30 minutes.

Almost 4:30pm! It was a warm sunny day when we started waiting but already turning a bit chilly.

The staff get water for us, spill on the floor and took our tickets. Actually each ticket for each person can only get you to the bath once. But who will bother queuing for another four hours!?

Upon entering the private cave, we settled our bags on the bench, get changed and started the timer. There is a small changing room with a bench and a cold water shower with a plastic basin and a bucket. When we stepped further in, there is the cave. Wooden logs as flooring, a bench in the centre, and our star - the small hot lagoon inside the cave and it's steaming hot stone walls. We chose a rather hot cave of 52C, otherwise, if we haven chosen 35C, we might be able to dip in the lagoon. So we sat on the bench, poured some natural hot water mixed with cold water from the shower over ourselves, ran to the cold shower once in a while and running back in to enjoy the steam in the cave.

We had the steam a little more than 15mins and felt quite enough. Including a cold shower and getting changed, in fact, we were ready in 25mins.

And the natural hot stone cave is absolutely amazing!

We rejoined the Norwegian couple after the soothing steam bath. Despite the hot thermal bath tickets they bought earlier, they were so tired and ready to go.

We insisted on using the bath tickets and would like to see how it goes.

After bidding farewell, we went to the private thermal bath area. Those private bathrooms were like some ugly bath tank in some cheap motel, we were not sure how much longer we need to wait and it turned out that many of the rooms were closed without water supply.

After the hot stone cave, we were not that keen on waiting some more hours, undress again and bath in those horrible tanks.

Since most rooms were out of service, Adley returned to the cashier and managed to get refund by bugging the guy about no hot water while he was still selling tickets to new comers.

Now, we are happy.

We got on a collectivo and then catches another shared taxi with some Peru tourists and returned Huaraz promptly, feeling light and clean.

Sunday, July 1, 2012

百玩不厭的Huascaran國家公園 (上) - 民居與河谷@Santa Cruz Trek

決定了參加四日三夜的 Santa Cruz 行山團,就去找一間野外活動公司報名。但是之前問過價(300Soles~HKD900)的公司都變了價(330Soles), 有些更索價420Soles, 當然後者在吃和住比較豪華。我們亦查詢過行山導遊所附近的一間公司可以度身定造安排導遊租器材驢子收費1000Soles,我們兩人要兩隻驢, 因為要拿一大罐石油氣及一大拿餐具,我啲又唔識講我地唔需要咁多嘢(仲包括廚房營及廁所營)。最後我們選了Galaxia, 因為他們的價沒有變,而且好像知道自己在做甚麼;雖然有LP介紹(我們的經驗是它推介的通常無好嘢),但是天黑了我們也要快決定。付了錢才在互聯網看到對此公司的評價好壞參半(好像是委過於功),沒辦法,不期望太多就算了。這個價錢是Inca trekking的四份一,同樣有四日三夜營幕睡袋驢仔廚師隨行,以當地生活指數也屬奢侈消費,我們只有收拾心情去就行了。明天還要早上六時出發。

旅行團女職員很準時,早上六時就找我們,弄得我們(以為南美習慣例遲)有點狼狽地出門口,帶了早餐就走。她用的士帶我們去公司集合地點,公司專車已經上得半滿。原來同團有加我們共十人,另外有兩人由女導遊帶去中途的”69湖”。車途由Huaraz到Yangay, 原來中途停Carhuaz讓我們買國家公園入場費(65soles, 入去一日只收5Soles, 但如果入去歷奇就要貴啲)及早餐(10soles, 只有咖啡茶麵包煎蛋,賺死佢),我們只是在這餐廳吃我們在旅舍廚房做的薯仔餅及香橙(秘魯的橙真的很甜)。





吃飽就出發,車沿山脈河谷上, 經過國家公園入口再往上之字路不斷上,一小時後我們見到一個很美的湖 (Laguna Llanganuco), 但是司機繼續駕車而去,車上的遊客包括我們都無提出停車看看,這使我有點不滿。這個湖要在我們繼續上山從高望下去才看到藍色一遍,在高原河谷群雪山當中很美。其實後來才知道之後比它更美的還有很多,這個湖因為近車路才會有團專程來看,我的不滿也沒有太大意思,但已經怨了坐窗邊的老婆手腳慢怕吹風無力開窗錯失拍照良機。我發覺自己旅行以來愈來愈臭脾氣,成日覺得老婆港女病唔捱得老奉以為世界為佢而轉無力又”論盡”,但係搵到個較唔似港女又肯同我去捱嘅老婆我已經好幸福,我無理由要求佢做我的理想旅伴(識搵路知自己去緊邊主動有主見心思細密體力好捱得冷熱餓污糟),老婆我對你唔住,經常向你發脾氣,攪到你自己揼自己心口唔開心自信心下降。我記得問過己結婚四十多年的Alastir的婚姻秘訣,他只提一個字 - Patience (耐性)。娶個自己去愛去照顧的老婆來,當然是自己能力較强才會有能力去愛和照顧, 況且自己也有弱的時候, 例如在Cusco我病的時候她照顧我好好的。婚姻就是這樣, 互相照顧, 又是寃家 (我哋經常覺得對方踩到自己條尾)。There is no perfect tango unless practising for show-off.

從婚姻之道講回行山。車在之字形路上山我們看到兩邊的雪山,右邊是Cordillera Blanca群山特別是Huascaran雪山, 左邊是Alpamayo等雪山。車行到Vaqueria小村,這裏是行李被轉至驢子的地方。有幾個行山客在這裏等車離開。其實這裏的行山路線難淺皆宜,自己準備好些又懂找車, 我們其實可以自助遊,當然要老婆到少可以背到二十公斤行山。在這個限制下,有驢子拿行季而只需背日用包行山的當然要付錢參加旅行團。在這小村廚師為我們準備午餐,但他的衞生習慣真的不敢恭維,大麵包袋穿就隨便放在地上,沒有洗手他就用手拿麵包,他不小心切傷,血已經染污一些三文治,最後只是就門面工夫用小白膠袋包午餐包好像很企理的一份份發給我們,我倆在他背後看到毛骨悚然。真的不放心就自己走過去自己拿麵包自己做三文治。我們的表現真的不太有善,但剛從肚疴痊癒過來的我們決定只吃他做的熱食,其他的冷食如沙律皆不碰。




吃過午餐起行,第一天行程容易,我們只需下山及走平路行約十公里到Huaripampa, 沿途跟河谷下山,景色一遍綠,走着驢仔路。經過小村落, 例如Colcabamba,當地居民務農放牧、亦有養蜜蜂及養葵鼠的,有婦女把羊毛紡線再染色然後手織各種衣物賣。小孩好像習慣遊人般,當我們走過就問我們要曲奇餅,他們知道我們的午餐包有,我給那三個男孩但要他們分享。見到另一班女孩,我問他們是否想吃朱古力,當然沒有小孩不要,只不過我找些機會和訓練我的西班牙文。
我們的驢仔隊已經追上我們







說回我們的隊友,有一對來自挪威、一男一女來自以色列身形較大、另外有兩個學生:一個男的來自捷克、另一個女的來自芝加哥,還有一對女的來自台灣。大家走著咳嗽聲不絶,當然有來自剛從感冒康復的我,也有來自以色列隊友,還有導遊列卡度,他也是剛痊癒,他說要不然會去帶團爬石, 這個團對他説輕而易舉。那個以色列男隊友覺得太辛苦中途退出。只餘下以色列女隊友及老婆相對較慢走在較後,幸好導遊是過有耐性的人,他走在最後看顧着較慢的。

 我們繼續走至黃昏,到達營地,

很早前過了我們的驢子隊已經起好營燒好水準備茶點。我都說這是豪華團,食物不缺又有人煮食遞餐,今天晚餐是魚(這是我們最不想吃的),我隨便吃些薯仔喝過湯就算,沙律例行不碰。天氣入夜很寒冷,很早我們便入營睡,我們的營幕衞生還可以,我借來的睡袋普通,但夠暖,我衣服不換倒頭就睡,第二天要五時半起床七時出發。

Saturday, June 30, 2012

百玩不厭的Huascaran國家公園 (下) - 雪山與藍湖@Santa Cruz Trek

 第二天導遊把Coca茶送進營並叫我們走床,果然是豪華團的待遇。吃過麵包夾煎蛋加熱朱古力(後者對我更重要)作早餐,我們出發了。小事一樁: 早上辦大事,原來四周的牛會對米田共虎視眈眈,還好我挖洞埋了再放大石壓住厠紙帶走,它們沒發掘寶,但是沿途的營地我看到不少行山客如厠後的厠紙,其實導遊也不大教育怎樣Leave No Trace. 廚師也在河邊倒食物渣滓。這大自然很容易被旅遊業破壞。












第 二天行程是上山至Punta Union Pass,是這旅程最辛苦的一天。來自挪威的一對隊友可能不適應高原空氣,覺得不太舒服和以色列女隊友走在最後,相對之下老婆走得不慢在中間位置 (經過玻利維亞的訓練,應付高原容易多了,老婆好嘢)。沿途看着美麗的雪山及可供攀爬的石面,還有羣山中的藍湖,特別是走到行程最高點的Punta Union Pass,雪山下的那個藍湖美得目不暇給,我們在這裏留了大半小時看得發呆。 下山到Arhuaycocha附近的營地 (當然這難不到我倆,很快我們便走到最頭),剛好是日落時候,看着四周的雪山頂被染成金色。這天行程感覺滿足,加上quinoa湯和蔬菜煮雞(我們可以放 心吃所有東西),我們感到很享受,晚上還有狗女睡在營幕門口當暖爐呢。她已經從出發的小村跟着,看來我們有餘吃給她,這是她覓食的方法。


第三天我們鑽上Arhuaycocha河谷看著名雪山Alamayo及冰川形成的冰湖,這是近觀的美。同行的捷克仔除哂衫跳進冰湖。眼見湖面的冰還在浮着,水大寒冷,我也沒有替換的衣物,而且還有大半天的路要走(這天的路程最長的,踓然是下山路),我還是不想下水了。跟着我們沿路下山,看着對面Artesonraju雪山,導遊說這是Paramount Picture電影公司標誌的那個雪山;我估這只是傳聞罷了,但看上去也很像。途中經過一塊大石很適合bouldering, 喜歡攀石的導遊很快就爬上頂,我也試試爬,但石面太多青苔,而且我的行山鞋也快支離破碎,無謂辛苦它們了。


走着走着,我們一行四個(包括芝加哥女和捷克仔)抛離從的一班團友太久,我們停下來等他們,又派人往回走找也找不着,一等就等四十五分鐘,我們覺得不妥,只有繼續行在前面的湖等他們。下山就看到有些怨氣的導遊走上來,問我們為何不知要繼續走,原來他們一行人走捷徑,在我們等他們時已過了我們。一行人重新匯合,我們沿像沙漠般的河谷底往 湖進發。導遊說在雨季會有冰川氾濫至此,可以淹及兩岸,現在只有一遍乾地及中間的一條河。

到達湖,看見廚師從營地走回來準備午餐,是麵包(?!)及呑拿魚沙律,我們太肚餓了,相信甚麼細菌也可以被消化了,所以不理衛生情況照吃如是。之後的行程是漫長的緩緩下山路,中間經過Llamacora營地,還在等後面的團友時, 我拿起口琴吃。有兩個來自意大利的年長男士拿著剛買的威士忌走過來,其中一個於廿年前在香港工作,問及現在香港的情況,我當然告訴他壞的: 港共走狗及儡侶治港、自由空間萎縮、大部份港人繼續政治冷、作繭自縳,及法治精神被蠶食。他問為何我不離開,我便告訴他們這就是我們開始這個旅程的其中一個原因,他還竪起拇指讚表示支持呢。

到了營地已經是六時,天也快黑,但我們仍看到右邊山壁像Machu Picchu和很高的瀑布。本以為最後一天離開營地之前可以走去瀑布看看。但第四天早上我們被急叫起床。因為芝加哥女整夜也不舒服,早上很虛脫,要在參扶下早些離開及快到車路連接的地方Cashapampa。我們各人輪流扶她下山,約三小時後到了Santa Cruz trek的終點Cashapampa。我們才發覺這條行山線要順時針走的話,是一開始的不斷上山至Punta Union Pass,比我們的逆時針走辛苦很多。

Santa Cruz Trek Map: 這裏是否不是終點,而是起點?
離開時看到一遍quinua 田
四日三夜的旅程很舒服,不要負重,有人服侍周到,但不太是我杯茶。下次重遊舊地我會選擇自己背包露營,自由自在得多,況且營地附近有小賣店賣食物,慳磅之餘又可以促進小村經濟(雖然一定會貴些)。景色而言,我們所看到的是絶頂美景。但這只是一小部份,我真的有想搬來這兒的衝動,好好享受這裏的山。

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

One day tour to Pastoruri, that really lures us to Santa Cruz trek



We went to Huaraz of Peru after the Lima city for fresh air and mountain. It is a famous place for hiking, rock-climbing and mountaineering, but I have not known this at all. There is also a well-known 4-day-3-night trekking called the Santa Cruz trek, which goes into National Park of Huascaran, which covers the highland Cordillera Blanca. The highland is claimed to be the highest and the most beautiful in the world. We saw a lot of mountains and glaciers in Argentina, Chile and Bolivia, thus were not sure if this highland would impress us and make us stay longer, given that we were behind schedule and had to rush north. Therefore we paid for a day trip to Pastoruri, which was famous for its glacier, mountain view and the unique plant of Puya raimondii.

The day did not start well as we were on time at 8:30am but we were sent to another agency and waited another one hour before the bus really started to go to Pastoruri. The guide spoke mostly Spanish as most of the participants of the tours where Peruvian. We did not expect much from the tour quality but only expected the natural scenery. After two hours of transport we were in the national park of Huascaran. The bus went up the valley to Nevado Pastoruri. It was quite dry like a dessert. We saw the lovely large plant of Puya raimondii, which grow like citrus.





There were also several scenic spots. The first one was a pool with ongoing gas like soda. We stopped by and the guide told us to put water to the head and the “soda water” was supposed to be good for the hair. People did as he said but I did not see the point and thus only took pictures of the mountains around. Another point was a pool with clear water. When we looked into it, it was a deep pool of clear water that we saw a green forest inside. No good camera can take what we saw. It was so green inside.

Then we saw a mural of ancient drawing, probably thousand years ago. Finally we arrived the entrance of Pastoruri, from there we had to walk an hour uphill to see the glacier. Frankly we had seen so many glaciers and were not much surprised by this one. On the way we walked back from the glacier, we were stunned by the snow-capped mountains in front of us.



 The mountains around the area were so beautiful that lured us to think about Santa Cruz trekking seriously.

Although the tour was a bit expensive (320 soles = HKD960), to me who were just recovering from flu and did not have much energy to plan a lot on independent camping, it was a good choice to have the donkeys doing the heavy loading. 

 In this day tour, we were impressed by the Peruvian mountains, which opened to us along the way. We were attracted by the mountains and wanted to see more in the Santa Cruz trek. 

Therefore we joined the tour. Santa Cruz trek, here we came.