The jaw-dropping Iguazu - II

On the next day we woke up early, made breakfast with the remaining gas, thanks to the next door neighbour who borrowed gas to boil water for our pasta. We packed everything and started off at 10:30 am (the next tenant was waiting from 10am for us moving out. It was a walk of 5 blocks under heavy rucksack. We dropped everything in the bus station and went to the Iguazu theme park for the second time.

We went to what we missed last time, the lower level of the fall near the cataratas station. There we saw the birds which hanged themselves on the side of the cliff next to the water fall. We also grasp a good look of the falls at the path to the "ferry" for San Martin Island; got soaked for free (not by joining the boat tour) but walked very closely to a fall.

Time ran quick and it was 3pm already, we went to the Diabo Throat again. Because of the rain last night there were much more water and it was more noisy and breathtaking. I can't resist taking the picture for the self-portrait. In the evening time the sun was falling and in that direction we can see a clear rainbow on the throat (we did the day before with a full rainbow bridge too). The view will be one of our best memories in the trip and we wanted more. 




Not eager to leave, we did and back on the bus to Foz du Iguazu, the Brazilian town next to the Fall and there we found the youth hostel for camp easily. Now we were in Brazil.

Foz de Iguazu, starting the Brazilian side

After visiting the Iguazu, we went back to Puerto Iguazu, got on the bus and went to Foz de Iguazu, the Brazilian town near Iguazu Fall. We took off 3 blocks ahead and had to walk 6 blocks to the youth hostel. To Maria, it was really tough, finally we got the HI hostel. It was Maria's first time in a youth hostel, for shared kitchen and bathroom. (M: I had been in summer camps staying in dorm or minzuku in Japan with private room and shared bathroom, no kitchen, but camping in youth hostel, with locker is my first!) The grassland was good for camping. There was also wifi. The cost was not cheap though. For camping, it cost R$17 per person (1R$=HK$4.6). There was also a small swimming pool. The staff were friendly and could speak English well. It was a perfect place.


When we settled down it was 7:30pm already. Glad that we have self-made pizza to heat up for dinner. We rushed to the nearby supermarket, which closed at 8pm, to buy beer. We should have brought the empty bottles in the hostel so we needn't pay extra R$2 for 1L beer bottle! We had a good dinner, good shower, good sleep in tent. Thanks to God that there was no rain.


The next day, we were supposed to wake up and go to the Brazilian side of Iguazu Fall, but we did not realize that it was 11am already when we went out (we should turn the clock one hour faster). Seems a waste for the expensive entrance fee if we go to the national park for the waterfall and rush to our host family afterwards, so in the afternoon, we did window shopping in the street of Av Brazil, where Maria bought a locally made sport bra (R$26, while imported one could cost R$120).

We went back to the hostel, go online, packed and missed the swimming pool, then walked to the bus stop to Rodovianria (bus terminal) for the bus to Medianeira, where our first CS host Juracy was). So "lucky" that the bus stop nearby was blocked because of road maintenance and we did not know where the next bus stop was. We had to walk 3 blocks to find one, another torture to Maria with her heavy backpack.


Finally we were in the bus terminal, getting the ticket and hopping onto the comfortable bus, then started our new episode staying with a local family in the coming four days.

The jaw-dropping Iguazu - I

After a hard time finding an apartment to stay in Puerto Iguazu, we were settling there for three days and two nights (with discount costing 150peso with kitchen and air-conditioning but no wifi) to see the Argentine side of Iguazu Fall. Being tortured by the heavy backpack, Maria was finally satisfied with all-you-can-eat parrilla (BBQ) on the street costing 50 peso each. It was kind of expensive in our budget, but to make Maria happy again, it was an easy way, to let her smile again by eating and drinking. I am glad to have a wife whom I know how to satisfied.


The next day we started early, took a bus to the theme-park-like Argentine Iguazu. We went straight to the Diabo Throat, which awed all visitors. So were us, our jaws dropped to see all water dropping to the abyss, the fog resulted from the water fall covered the air that we couldn't see the bottom of the valley. 

 

We were there for a long time, not taking pictures but to stand there, gazing at the fall for a long long time, feeling the power of the fall, while other tourists just stood there to take pictures for themselves.

After we paid 400 peso for the moonlight walk the same night (we were lucky to be on the second last night for a full moon trip that participants went in again after the park was closed), we walked the Macuco Trail. Expecting some wildlife, but after one hour walk we saw nothing but big spiders and coati. We went to a pool for a dip. The water was not clear but many locals go there for a dip (local only paid 10 peso to enter the theme park).

Disappointed and it was 4pm already, we went to the upper level of the falls near catarata station. Before we could cover the lower level, it went dark and it was still 6pm (when the park closed) and there were still two and a half hour before the gathering time of the moonlight walk. We went into the Sheraton hotel to hang out in the lobby. Although we cannot have wifi, we could sit in air-conditioning with sweaty clothes and see the Diabo Throat fall away behind glass.

The adventure came: the sky turned cloudy and we did not know that the moonlight walk was canceled. The last bus from the hotel and the park back to Puerto Iguazu ended. Either we had to pay 120 peso for remis (local taxi) back, or walk to the gate of the park for trying some luck on hitch-hiking. We chose later. Maria was very tensed about this, believing the propaganda that there were fierce animals in the park after dark and the punishment of wandering in the park after closing. Personally (also with the habit of breaking rule) I don't think so after the disappointment of seeing no wildlife in the Macuco Trail.  It was a nice walk on the road at the middle of the national park with moonlight behind cloud. (M: was so worried about a wild cat popping up to bite us, but when our eyes get used to the night, I see light in front of me and felt that we are safe and God is within us and we are well taken care of.) We finally went to the gate, got the refund from the moonlight walk. (M: with the help of a staff, who drove us back to the main gate from a staff area) It was nice of them to refund right away. It would have been different if this happened in China, which would not bother to give refund so quickly, or even none. Luckier was that we met two workers waiting for remis back to town and we could share the fare with them (100 peso shared by four). One was a photographer and another was the powerboat captain.

Finally we went back to Puerto Iguazu, did some shopping in the supermarket. Making cuadril (M: As bife de chorizo sold out, the butcher recommended this, he said the meat taste even better, though not as tender, it was good!) and made pizza for the next day and cookies as snacks. Probably we cooked too much, when we start boiling some water, all the gas in the apartment was used up. Though, we had the next lunch and dinner prepared.

阿根廷長途巴士之旅 - Iguazu中篇

中途又再次停車休息，瞇眼看了一下，繼續找周公子去。


一覺醒來已是早上六點，司機開了燈，說了幾句，所有人拿行李下車。有個洋妞（後來知道原來來自英國）看了一下與同伴說：passport check, will be staying here for an hour! (心想：咁快到？）


又有隣座好心媽媽見我倆仲頭鱷鱷，便說：Vamos....Otro....（其他聽唔明）再看看環境，原來要轉車及轉司機。下車看一下，行李已由四個大隻司機搬好，所有人上了車，即走。


好奇怪，巴士駛到對面馬路，司機才好像忽然記起似的，走出來點人數。大暴龍乘機問佢可否在 Puerto Iguazu（阿根廷那邊下車，他說可以。


往後幾小時，邊打瞌睡，邊欣賞小鎭、森林、牧場、馬場的寧靜。忽然，車上一陣騷動，車尾的乘客走向司機室說：... Por favor...司機出來走到車尾的廁所...原來有個男人在廁所偷偷吸煙，被教訓了幾句，又回復空調聲和有電視沒開機的平靜。


香港的朋友坐飛機到Puerto Iguazu來回只須Ar$1500,還早機去（早上7點幾）晩機返（黃昏6點幾），為看一下一生必到的瀑布，也是值得。


但我們有的是時間，而行程尚要繼續，不回Buenos Aires了，還是坐巴士比較適合。


又是下車午飯、上廁所的時候，仲有幾遠呀？

阿根廷長途巴士之旅 - Iguazu上篇

雖聞說omnibus 網頁全英文之餘，車票價格與Retiro omnibus站一樣，我身邊的格價專家絶不會放過任何慳得就慳的可能性，終於，我們去了四次Retiro omnibus站...


第一次，到了巴士售票樓層，發現那𥚃大到有點似迷宮。定眼再看，原來櫃位各區以東西南北來劃分。從Retiro為起點，有各式各樣的巴士公司前往阿根廷，甚至南美的各個地區、城市，應有盡有。


我們在直接前往巴西Rio de Janeiro、或是先到Iguazu瀑布，還是難以取捨，便先問價錢。一般單程前往阿根廷那邊的Puerto Iguazu是Ar$450-550;而單程前往Rio則是Ar$600-825。


以有限西語，續間訪尋之下，終於找到一家巴西公司Pluma價格最低，到Rio只是Ar$580，而巴西那邊的Foz de Iguazu才Ar$350！我們決定回去再surf下有冇再平啲！


上網睇完一餐，發覺佢已係最平，又怱發奇想，那巴士會停Foz 再去Rio，不知可否買Rio車飛，在Iguazu溜幾天？笫二天又再去踫運氣。


一筆大交易，拿著信用咭和護照出發去。


我們比手劃腳，解釋了我們的企圖，售票小姐居然說沒問題，並只須Ar$550！但他們只收現金！問好週日的辦公時間後，（他們週日竟辦公！）只有明天請早。


第三天，車票終於到手！我們更巡視了一篇在哪裡照行李和登車。


同時，我們一直在嘗試couch surfing,寄了request給幾乎所有的iguazu區及Rio的CS會員。在99%的被拒，終於得到了一個住在距離Foz de Iguazu一小時車程的家庭收留；在Rio亦有一位女生讓我們借宿幾天（感恩！）又那女生之前會離家，比我們計劃的遅了一天，只好將離開Foz de Iguazu的時間退一天，那玩盡阿根廷及巴西兩邊瀑布公園之餘，又可了解一下本地人的生活。


又回到巴士售站，還在擔心往Rio的巴士只是一、三、五，只推遅一天成嗎？或許，由巴西Iguazu往Rio的班次比較頻密，不用加錢 ，順利完成！


終於，到了離開Buenos Aires 的日子，我背著肯定有30kg的backpack再在前面加了個小背囊，行3個block去坐巴士，呼吸開始有點困難；大暴龍則氣定神閒跟在我後面，不久便超越了。


巴士6：30pm開出，車票上建議5pm到達。我們5：30pm才到，過X-ray，再到巴士公司櫃檯check-in也算順利。只到登車樓層再過X-ray 入閳，等15分鐘前上車。


我們的巴士票比較cheap，坐椅並非flat bed，但尚算闊落，cushion厚厚的，又可伸腳，18小時，尚可接受。


司機有兩個，會輪更駕駛，開車時司機艙更會關上門。


開車前，機長走在路口打了個招呼，宣佈最重要的事項：厠所在車尾但不能開大！（心想，開出又可以點呢？幸好，這𥚃不是大陸，這邊的人雖會亂拋垃圾，但對讓座、上廁所、放飛劍等尚有一定程度的公德心。）


車子準時開出，往公路進發。八點，天色漸暗，開飯！

沒有太大的期望，便𣎴感失望。由司機派飯盒，有半份芝士三明治、半份加了火腿（大暴龍全份只有芝士）、一個肉肶，一塊甜到喊嘅Dulce de Leche餅（送mate fit哂）、仲有一塊有一點果占在中央好甜好奶味嘅餅,同冇得俾你㨂嘅冰凍可樂一罐 - 當然可揀唔飲。（隔咗幾粒鐘又開始肚餓，想起先前餐餐fiesta, 仲好想食lomo同bife de chorizo...)


食完冇人會收tray,只有一位似乎係熱心巿民嘅，用番派tray嘅膠袋收自己屋企人d嘢，再好心收多幾行！


車行至11點多，到了一家有嘢賣、有嘢食、有厠所去，但除了一家油站，眼見之處四野無人嘅地方，停了半小時。


又肚餓，食碗燒鵝瀨都唔錯。發下夢先...

阿根廷長途巴士之旅 - Iguazu下篇

終於、終於看到一片寫著Puerto Iguazu 的草地，再轉多幾個彎，車還未停定，所有人已拿著護照站起來。下午3時許，我們已不經不覺到達阿根廷邊境。


但我們先前已拜託司機要在Puerto Iguazu下車，這裡可以離開嗎？還是他其實不明白我們在說啥？我倆憨居居的拿了手提行李下車，跑上前向司機查詢。原來巴士要根據乘客名單過境，所以我們要先跟大隊過完關才可以拿行李走。


之後半個鐘又出境、又入境，才上了回Puerto Iguazu鎭的巴士。大熱天時（超過37度）背著牛龜咁大件行李（我覺得件行李重過我！），行咗幾個block，已得番半條人命。最後，我們決定一個坐下看行李，另一個出去找。行哂成個鎮，續家續戶問價，終於找到價錢可以接受，又有房的客棧。到個男人返來，話出發，行咗五條街先發現行錯路，我行到喊，只覺好倦、好辛苦，結果又要通通放下行李重新找...


天都黑齊，個男人租到房，走回來，終於決定打的到住處。那裡有廚房、有冷氣，可住一家7口，房價Ar$300兩晩，算不錯。之後，出去吃了一餐Ar$50位任食parillya豪一豪佢，狂叫lomo, bife de chorizo, ribs...開心番哂！

Not much tango but lots of local life, such as party

Last week we just went to Salon Canning on Tuesday and La Viruta on Friday. The other night we were busy preparing the trip to Iguazu and Rio afterward. Rio is so full in mid-February during the Carnival. Just a tent on roof top costs 45 Reis (HK$ 225 a night). It is our cheapest choice already. We keep finding couch-surfing (CS, it is to ask if anyone has a couch at home to host). The couch providers in Rio are mostly out of town or have other couch-surfers already. It seems that local people will get away from the carnival if possible, are we doing the tourist thing by getting there at that peak time ? (M: Yes, we are, darling. Afterall, it's a world big event once a year, just be there as a tourist, once, okay?^^)

So far we just find a couch/room at Medianeira, 55km away from Foz de Iguazu, the Brazilian side of Iguazu Fall. The family has a deep history and is very welcoming. Our concern is that it costs 12 Reis one way to get to and fro the fall. However, as CS is about meeting people instead of staying for free, we would like to try by visiting the fall for 2-3 days and then go to Medianeira particularly, just getting to know local people. Wish us luck.

We went to Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (Malba) on Wednesday, when they had the main exhibit by Carlos Cruz-Diez. The work was amazing by combining simple colors and lines to complexity. The amazing will get boring when seen for too long. (But Cruz-Diez had been playing with this concept for over 30 years!) The more amazing thing was that those "modern art" work on display was created 40 years ago and are still looking very contemporary now. They stay 'modern' as time goes by.


Last Thursday we had a great party with HK tango girls at their apartment. To our delight, we can stay in BsAs for one more week in their apartment by setting up a tent in the terrace outside the kitchen. Thanks Carrie, Anne and Eva. We'll cook good meals for you.

We were nearly robbed in Retiro train station, on Saturday, by cunning thieves who spread some liquid to distract our attention. While we were busy cleaning, my rucksack was opened. Luckily we lost nothing, but I felt ashamed of my low awareness and easy fall to the psychological trap (as Maria said, Monkeys see Monkeys do). In similar situation, we should have ran away, instead of standing there cleaning.

 

We follow the queue and not knowing what's ahead of us!

After the scary incident, we found our refuge by visiting a nearby museum - Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Issac Fernandez Bianco. It should have been closed at 7pm, but there was still a queue at 6:45pm. We lined up to visit the museum but ended up sitting in a monologue poetry reading/ drama session in the museum (in Spanish). It was good to familiarize with the language, soaking into the dramatic monologue with a good actress emotional performance and melancholy singing (something about a dead child and a sad mother), nice air-conditioning to cool-down, also with art collections around us. Later we found an English speaking church nearby.

Being too tired, we slept through the morning and missed the English Sunday mass and the possible Tigre re-visit on Sunday. After buying the bus tickets for Iguazu and Rio (only 550peso per person), we went to a local circus polo (tent set-up for circus show) at Juan de Garey. The free show was performed by local acrobat (I wonder if they are amateur, it is free anyway). (M: interestingly they give a look of 'lucky! I've made it', after every difficult tricks they've performed in near success.) We joined the locals and kids in applauding and cheering and had a good time.

After French onion soup, it rained and we stayed at home, though we thought about outdoor milonga in Plaz de Derrego.


We haven't packed for moving out on Jan 31. Wish us luck.