Showing posts with label Rurrenabaque. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rurrenabaque. Show all posts

Friday, June 1, 2012

Stuck in Sapecho

After the 2 days jungle tour, we got our bus tickets to La Paz for the festival on 2 June.


It was an all day parade to celebrate Señor Jesús del Gran Poder, supposingly in honor of 'lord the great power', but turned out to be showing off how rich you are with the fancy costumes and getting drunk all day long.
 
One hour delay, we finally see our bus in the Rurrenabaque bus terminal. It was already 10pm. Good to see that it's really a bus not a cargo van nor truck, but a real tour bus, so we would be able to lie down on our own seat.


The seat, however, was not that comfortable, I was able to lie down in some 120 degree but there was no place to stretch my legs. Under the seat in front was blocked and there was also a panel on the side, so I was unable to stretch my legs on the aisle neither.


The road was quite bumpy, we were throwing up and down, right and left all night long. I felt more like a roller coaster than a bus and was holding Adley's hand tight, with the thought of a YouTube death bus ride that our Chilean friend once mentioned. A bus driver somewhere in Bolivia was driving on a narrow mountain road, and ask the passengers all went down, knowing the risk. But then he ended up falling into the valley.



It was dawn and we arrived in a small village, Sapecho. The bus stopped. We thought it was a toilet break, but we found there was a chain barricading the road, with a sign saying, 'Atencion: Corte de Ruta 0600-1600 Lunes a Sabado', 'Corte' means cut or disengagement...which is bad. Are they really closing the road for a whole day!? We just arrived at 6:30am and if only the bus had not delayed, we might catch their curfew. We now need to wait 10 hours doing nothing.
We saw some passengers and driver surrounding the road workers, discussing and then a lady exclaimed that 'i have a job!' but seems nothing could be done, we have to wait! Everyone then scattered in the small village, when some shops was opening, people bought some mandarin, toothbrush, toothpaste and had breakfast. The workers who took care of the chain, only let cars into the town but not out.


We had some breakfast and tried to watch a movie on the computer, but suddenly music on the bus was turned on...it was only 8:40am, more hours to go. And the music stopped again. And on. We kept watching a magician version of Romeo and Juliet, 'The Illusionist' with our headset.


Then, we decided to take a walk to town and around. We checked with the driver, who confirmed we could only move at 4pm, so we start walking.


We found a phone to call our CS host in La Paz about the delay, then found a pharmacy and got some mosquito repellent (the bites from the jungle and these few days are so itchy and its now swollen), then a store for juice and settle down writing our blog. This gonna be a quiet and relaxing afternoon. We was 15 minutes walk away from the bus, hope it won't suddenly leave us.


We returned at around 1:15pm and other passengers said we could have left at 12:30pm but was waiting for us. We rush to the bus and everyone said 'Vamos! Vamos!' (Let's go!) only to find that there are a few more passengers yet unreturned.


We strolled to a nearby store to have a quick fried chicken rice with banana and potato. (B$11). We were chatting with a Japanese from Brazil who could only speak Spanish and Portuguese. He was interested in Chinese eating frog and snake. Then a family of 3 returned finally and we rushed back to the bus.


We left at 2:30pm eventually, but only after 7 minutes, we are stuck on a bridge again. A stone was blocking the road and the workers have to move it away when we could move on.


Just another 1km, the bus stopped again, the construction was blocking the road, it was eventually at 4pm that they clear the block and let us go again. (AT: even the truck before us could pass the previous gate at 11:30am but it still had to wait here till 4pm, I would rather wait in the town with food and juice instead of at the middle of nowhere).


At 6pm, we arrived a town named Caranavi and was told we could have dinner until 8:30pm! It's a small town, with all the eatery or street food located near the bus station, apart from a few pharmacy and telephone cente, there was nothing much to see. We strolled around and went to two different restaurants to have beef soup and barbaque sausage rice and enjoyed using their toilet. (public toilet always cost B$1 or more). Then we strolled around again and ended up drinking coconut juice at a street stroll of the plaza. Finally, we went back to the bus to start off again.


It waited so long in order to get more passengers in Caranavi and they did got a few more.


Eventually we arrived La Paz at 3am, which took us 30 hours to get there!


We got on a taxi, woke our host Daltry at 4am to let us in his house, that's very nice of him for not minding that and was always friendly and helpful, with the help of the porter calling his mobile for us. We finally got a nice hot shower and a warm shelter and slept just an hour before dawn.

Monday, May 28, 2012

在玻利維亞漫長的泥路上...沈船

離開有高樓大廈的小城Santa Cruz,我們往北走,坐了12小時通宵車到Trinidad。其實我們的目的地是再坐12至30小時巴士的 Rurrenabaque。(究竟是12定30?似乎距離很大呢!?)


Rurrenabaque 又名Rurre,是玻利維亞景點中少有的低地,只有海拔105米,因地近亞馬遜盆地,是經河流 Río Bení遊熱帶雨林及到國家公園Parque Nacional Madidi 的出發點。


我們早上6時到Trinidad,沒有幾家巴士公司開門,問了一間是明天早上才出發。其實,我們的理想時間是坐夜車,既可省一晩旅館錢,又可到城中逛一天。



巴士公司末開,先去醫肚。車站旁有個小街巿,有一排食店,我們來了兩客現造的芝士empanadas,兩客frita,一杯咖啡,一杯朱古力,合共B$9。




巴士公司開始開門,最快開出的是上午9時的車。我們怱怱用15分鐘走入城,在銀行換了錢,再買了點麵包好上路。


8:40am趕回巴士公司,巴士公司叔叔叫我們稍等,但後來店裡的媽媽又說車10點才到。


10點多,有個大隻哥哥搬貨上車,搬搬下,我們的背囊也有份。但那是駕貨車!我們嘗試查詢是否有另一駕乘客坐的車,他們只說再等一下吧,快了。


終於,貨搬好,貨車內加兩條長木板便是我們的座位了。





幸好,乘客不多,我倆外,只有一男、一女及一家四口-媽媽、手抱大bb和兩兄妹,位置足夠大家各據一方。另坐車頭的是司機兼老闆、其女兒及另一司機。



車上滿是貨物,有番茄、枱、櫈、一堆木磨、大大小小的箱子,用滿是沙麈的帆布包裹。木板以外,我們便靠在帆布上。車上可能實在太髒,不到一天我臉上已長出粒粒,雙手又開始敏感起來,長出一排排的小泡泡。自巴西Isla Grande開始的,擦了近一個月敏感藥本來痊愈,真麻煩。

車行到中午,停了下來,原來要等船過河。我們下車飲了碗雞湯飯,喝了瓶啤酒,又再上路。



這段路是這國出名的難路, 好多貨車中途停了,我哋估就算我們等多一日撘巴士,也會遭同一命運,可能更慘,因為大巴士上唔到木筏


全程不是黃泥路、沙麈,就是水潭,癲波非常,有老闆女兒在車上,司機似乎相當小心,我們的速度亦慢,前行又要經過另一水道,這程很短,亦立即有船。但車行不久,又停下了。前路半泥半河,無法前行,面前亦有一條長車龍,居然在此要等兩小時,才有摩打木筏送我們走。


日落時份,終於等到隻木,忽然變成半小時遊船之遊,在車上看到兩岸的鷺、鴨、鵝、鷹、鱷魚、甚至河豚。最恐怖是水上一條條白色光柱,原來是蚊群,我倆雖已由頭到腳重重包裹,但也不能幸免被餓蚊襲撃。


終於到岸,繼續在泥路上前行。九時多,到了一小鎭,才吃到街邊阿姐最後一碟牛肉飯,只好兩份分。


貨車在鎭上又多了三名乘客。


其實路程經過另一國家公園,出名有好多雀在兩旁,可算是唯一免費娛樂

 
起行了末夠一小時,我睡到半夢半醒,正被旁邊細路的臭腳踢在我肚子上,車停了下來。司機可能太疲倦 ,居然泥足深陷,剷進泥潭中,不能動彈。


老闆與女兒好像是跑回村找幫手。


其他人沒事可做,只有等及睡。


真正的泥足深陷
老公在車上掛起吊床,我倆鑽了進去,一睡到天光。


一覺起來,那三個新乘客棄車走了。車上媽媽坐了駕電單車的士進村買早餐。我們言語不通,怕不會回來,只好留下繼續等。四野無人,幸好有對公公婆婆經過,拿著木瓜到村子賣,我們才有早餐吃。


老闆與女兒坐了駕中型車回來,試拉不果,又叫司機掘泥,最後有一輛拖拉機經過,把貨車拉離了泥,但又要等換電池,終於到近十時才開車。


車行龜速,終於到晩上才到了San Borja。


車停了,我們才知道這是終站。。


被騙了!(或許人家有解釋,是我們聽不明。)


要到Rurrenabaque原來要在此再轉兩次車。那種小巴或的士,又要等齊人才開車。


半夜,終於到了Rurrenabaque,找到旅館落腳。

呢段路程 (Trinidad-Rurre),如果你唔嫌辛苦或好鍾意睇雀,咁就去啦,我哋就一定無下次,寧願經Cochabamba。