Expecting the unexpected in Georgia

Georgia has the best drivers

Once a Turk told me, all Georgian drivers on the road remained by natural selection, hence, those remained on the road alive and kicking, are best of the best. Many cars on the road got smashed front window, missing bumper, broken doors, license plate loosely hammered, bumps all over and many look disastrous. Of course, they could be cheap second hand, but they could also be road warriors. With so much mountain in the Caucasus

region, roads are bad. Though most currently under construction, more are still work-in-progress and - Georgian love to speed. We saw crashed car a few times while traveling around Georgia. Police and road maintenance guys seem to be very experienced. They handled the situation with extreme efficiency. Cars will drive on the pedestrian path for parking, take some unexpected U-turn anywhere, drive backward in full speed, make quick turn at the corner and would seldom slow down to let you cross even if its a zebra crossing or a green pedestrian light. They always take priority over pedestrians. LOOK TWICE while you cross or even drive (well, we dared not rent a car) if you want to leave Georgia alive!

Life warning II

Hold on to the handrails when you are on the escalator of the metro in Tbilisi. I encountered the escalator stopping abruptly twice, during one of my short weekend stay in the capital. The long, deep, speedy escalator heading underground had then appeared in my nightmare.

 

小心成為埃及騙子盜賊提款機

在埃及各城，尤其遊客區，每次離開機場、車站、或經過碼頭、古跡、巿集，總會被一群「售貨員」包圍。被日語、普通話或韓語問候，（對不起！你們全估錯了！）然後硬推的士、帆船、馬車、三輪電單車服務、或旅館、食肆、紀念品不等。當你說，不用了，謝謝，他們會充耳不聞，繼續硬銷。最常用的對白係，「好平喎，你估下幾多錢 ？」一天聽十幾次，其實都幾好笑。有幾次仲有馬車話免費！

 

有緣在埃及認識了不少亞洲旅客，有大陸內地的，有台灣的，也有韓國的。大家不約而同的互相警告說，如在街上遇上英文了得的本地人，便要特別小心！

不只一次，在坐公共小巴、三輪電單車或買東西時，若司機或老闆不善英語，總會有一位路人甲出現，代當時人講價。這種「街上即時傳譯員」總會將價格提高一點，從中取利！

可以做的，唯有多做功課，先看旅遊書的價錢作參考，價問三家，再由一折開始大膽講價，可能的話，學兩句阿拉伯語加上手語及用寫的直接只與當時人講價。不用理會路人甲、乙、丙。

因不想成為水魚，我們堅決拒絕乖乖的付外國人價，每天小心翼翼、秒秒議價，實在累斃了。

聽說，在開羅金字塔區坐駱駝，一輪千辛萬苦的議價後，駱夫又會在半路停下，坐地起價，並要求索取駝夫、助手、助手的助手的貼士，沒完沒了。

我們初到開羅，想買電話咭，便在巿中心，開羅博物館附近找電話公司，一英語流利（危險！）的中年男子在路上問我們是否要幫忙，我們婉拒，但他堅持說，「放心，不收錢的，埃及人其實很友善嘛！況且，女士你長得跟我太太很像；先生你的小鬍子也像埃及人，特有親切感。」我們想，只是帶路到電話公司上台，也騙不到什麼錢，便隨他走。我們本想去品牌專門店，但好心先生卻領我們到了一家類似先達的小店。繼而搶著議價，不讓我們與店員直接對話。唉！又上當了！價錢比我們所知的高出十倍。我們調頭便走。他還在後面還價呢！

稍後，可靠埃及朋友告訴我們，電話咭還是到品牌店買比較靠得住，街頭電話店最多只適宜買增值咭。

又有一次，我們在舊開羅區遇上一埃及人，英語流利（危險！）但十分友善的說自己與我們同路，正在回家，可順路帶我們走折徑，並介紹我們到附近一些必到名勝，不收錢的，叫我們放心。我們一起走了近二十分鐘，路上他說他下月結婚，若我們仍在開羅，歡迎我們參加他的婚禮。他更從口袋，拿出未婚妻的照片給我們看，並說要交換電郵，好讓他寄結婚日的照片給我們看。一路走著，他說要帶我們到藍清真寺，更說寺內有一高㙮，居高臨下，是看日落及四處景色的好地方。入寺有建議收費而高㙮另須收費，也是為區內兒童的教育、醫療謀福利的。（我們心想，開始不妥）其實，我們前幾天已到過清真寺區，建築甚獨特，但已看個飽了，並不想再看。況且，很多清真寺也是免費參觀的，要花錢的高㙮也去過一個了。但見他善心滿載的樣子，還是跟著他走。到了他所謂的藍色清真寺（好像跟旅遊書的有點出入），寺算是中小型，亦有點破舊。好心先生帶了我進寺內的辦公室，叫我在箱中捐款。我覺得難以拒絕，給了一點零錢，但我們並沒有興趣參觀。他便說，我帶你走了好一段路，看，我一臉是汗，請給我點什麼吧！喂，先生，你不是說不要錢，又剛好順路的嗎？我說，那給你支原子筆吧！他拒絕我的小心意...終於說，我結婚缺錢呢！

真的假的？！方法較有創意，還是在拿導遊費。在他的叫嚷聲下，我倆急歩離開現場。

幸好，此類騙導遊費的人物沒有多大攻擊性，亦不會跟蹤我們。順利脫險！

另一次，在艾夫（Elfu），一個阿斯旺（Aswan）與六合所（Luxor）之間的小鎭看完一神廟古蹟，剛好遇上一大群小朋友放學，相信他們少見外國人，最初由興奮異常的前來跟我們握手，漸漸變成一大群的前後族擁，再演變成拍手臂、踼大腿，場面愈發失控。有一個見義勇為的十來歲小朋友為我們護航，亦有路人幫忙喝罵。走了一小段路，我跑到一家影印店，向老闆娘問路。老闆娘即時先行喝罵開始過份的小人兒。因路上太多人圍觀，一馬車經過，車主顧著看熱鬧，撞上路上停泊的車，一時間弄致人馬翻。亂攪出一場小鎮風雲。我們剛好跳上公車，逃之夭夭。

又有朋友在阿斯旺的岸邊想上公共船渡河到象島，被騙上了一艘私家船，開船才得知被騙，進退兩難，只好老大不願意地付上十倍價錢。雖然埃及物價偏低，但狠狠的被騙還是心有不甘。

亦是阿斯旺巿集，有小販推銷絲巾，蓋一下路人的面，蓋一下背包，再添一下踫撞，老公及兩位同行台灣女生的背包通通被打開了。幸好，他們眼明手快，大聲喝止，幸保不失。

好像將埃及說成危機處處，立入禁止之地，但她的遠古歷史、在聖經古籍中的地位、古蹟之多，實在是一個寶地。在我們一年多的旅程中，埃及亦是數一數二物價最低廉的地方。只好說生活艱難，令窮人無可奈何而已。不得不說，我們在開羅、阿斯旺、象島、六合所、阿力山大、海格特也有遇上真心相對，不心計的好埃及人。如我們不是背包客，只是遊客心態，不計價錢，只為盡興，可能會玩得舒服點，像旅遊書說，畢竟要接受他們國民的平均收入較旅客的祖國低，因此，同一件貨物或服務有不同的預想價值也是合理不過。只要是你認為的目標價便是好價錢，高處末算高。

再者，值得欣賞的是，與埃及人議價後，他們定必講口齒，就算要找續，他們也會如實交貨，如數找換。總比在大陸那種騙財騙貨的情況好。相對，亦因議價的空間大，會議價的，撿到便宜也不定！

挪威大石臺 Preikestolen

離開Tyssedal到Odda，已經天黑，其實只不過是黃昏六時，我們急急買過食物，便在一間油站外截順風車往南向”石臺”(Preikestolen)進發。我們舉起牌，很多車經過，很多司機留意我們，但都走過，等了一小時還是無起息，心想等到九時都無車，就到對面的戶外停車場找片草地紥營煮飯。怎料我們正想這樣做之際，一個媽媽駕車接我們二十公里南面的小鎮 Skare (我想這還好, 至少也是要道，繼續爬車也方便)。後來Anne還提議我們在她家裏留一夜，恭敬不如從命，況且天氣寒冷，天黑車輛愈來愈少，又不知會否能當晚上車。她很好客，曾招呼不少經過的背包客。我們去到她舒適的家，在她廚房煮晚飯，了解家庭生活。她的三個兒子逐一離家，而她只在夏天經營附近的紀念品店，對於將來只有兩老在家感到唏噓。她很想和丈夫在後者退休和兒子離家後到處旅行，但又不想放下舖頭，而丈夫又有風濕不能呆在野外太久。我們提議她想想駕車旅行，還開玩笑說我們可以幫忙開舖呢(如果回港後找不到工作的話)。她很喜歡喝茶，我想想可以寄些普洱給她。

第二天(星期三)我們近中午才出發，Anne送我們出去乘巴士，巴士費很貴，但如果不付錢坐車，就不能在星期四或之前到Preikestolen，要坐順風車還有二三百公里，而且這裏的人好像不太熱衷載人。既然我們在Sandnes找到人住，我們決先去那兒，星期四再出發，去不到大不了在Stavenger觀光一天。Martin和她的姐姐是斯洛法克人來這裏工作發展，我們在這裏第一晚煮了餐焗雞翼、甜酸蝦和炒飯，吃得我們滿肚腸肥。第二天乘車和船，有些轉接地回Stavenger -> Tau -> Jorpeland -> Josund。如果是夏天就不需那麼轉接了，現在已經是季尾，交通班次不密。

季尾的好處是人不多，如果是夏天旺季上山的路便塞得水洩不通，原來單程兩小時也要三小時以上。Anne和Martin都不約而同擔心季尾可能下雪出路難行。不理會了，現在已經在路上，下巴士還要再行車路個多小時才到達兩小時路程的山路開端。同行還有一個在巴黎做事的北京女人，後來我們要趕車要快上山，就抛離她，況且我們還可以截順風車免了這段較悶的上山車路。

從車路轉山路，去的路真的花了兩個多小時，當中試過迷路，也碰見來自香港的學生，她們在山腳青年宿舍住了前一晚，今天出發。中途下雪，有些大風有些寒，石路很清楚，但也濕滑。我們也因找路吵了一頓，就算最後找到石臺也心情盡失。 在寒風中吃過三文治，拍幾張照(我不捨得走，蹓蹥多久，在大石臺上不敢向下望，直落五百米就是海了，風又大，怕被吹下去，但實在壯觀，不久就下山趕車了。

下山時雪也下得密，我們失了最後往碼頭的巴士，只有沿高速公路截順風車。好運地我們分別截了輛Audi跑車到Ornes(那兒我們在關門的遊客中心看到三文魚場及一輛由一榮升媽媽駕的車(後者還參與建築Martin所住公寓的工程，世界真少)回Sandnes。

回Sandnes得開心，還有時間購物，為老婆買了新的行山褲，我們亦買了一條2.5公斤的大鱒魚回家焗。

第二天晨咁早三時起床坐四時半巴士(因為平, 249kr一位,還有免費上網和報紙)回Bergen，結束這五天的尋石之旅，目標達成，而且所費不太高。在挪威旅行太貴了，坐一程城內巴士單程也要44kr (約HKD60)，吃就不敢奢望在餐館吃(動輒幾百元一餐午飯，而且只是快餐)。雖然如此，這裏的大自然實在太美，我們玩得樂而忘返。

Honduras immigration, I am so confused ...

Border Crossing: Nicaragua to Honduras

We checked the BNO official site and found Honduras is visa free to travel by BNO. We entered the country via Nicaragua crossing border through Canos Blanca and was able to enter the country just by paying some tax of Lp 60 each, with receipt.

Then we leave the country via Puerto Cortes to Belize by boat.  The staff at the Honduras immigration told us that we need a visa to enter Honduras (so why are we already here?) and he read us a table of requirement, proofing that the we need a visa.  The document is a list of visa requirements for various countries, that looked the same as the one we found from the Guatemala visa requirement page on their government official site earlier, (we found no such list on the Honduras official site!?).  The list is just a few page of printed paper, without headline.

Immigration Office at the Fishermen Market, Puerto Cortes, Honduras

We kept asking him if we need a visa to enter your country, how come we were already inside.  We showed him the tax we paid when we entered Hondorus and told him he should check with his colleagues on the other side of the border instead.  He made some calls and insisted that we need to pay US$30 each before leaving the country, otherwise, he will retrieve our passport and put us to jail! (this country don't have justice and order and will put people to jail right away!? -probably yes, they don't!)

Well, any country has the right to interpret and change their entry requirements, we have no choice but pay.

We are requested to photocopy our passport and the entrance form page (where on hell is the photocopier in the fish market?) but he asked the ferry staff to do that for us, no charge. We just waited in the office. Fine, as long as the boat was going to wait for us.

Then we asked for a receipt, the officer said we need to go to the bank to pay to get a receipt, we asked where, he said downtown, which is 20mins away! (and the boat is leaving any time!) We kept bugging him as said, if we pay here, we should get a receipt!  Then he said they could only issue receipt in downtown office if we insist. (Now what, Mister? Bank or office?)

Anyhow, he knew our boat was leaving any time and he gave every dumb reason in the world for not giving a receipt - that we all know why.

Well, we have no choice but to pay US$60 and the money went to the safest place right away - his shirt pocket.

Off we go, on a boat to Belize City

Then, we were set free!

Anyway, we are safe and sound now.

National Geographic Live: Witnessing Birth of Sea Turtles

Never in my life have I seen a living sea turtle, needless to say witnessing a mother sea turtle giving birth, except in Animal Planet or National Geographic Channel, but then, we saw it! And for 96 times on our first night as volunteer of Asociación Salvemos Las Tortugas de Parismina (ASTOP), 
http://www.parisminaturtles.org/  with the task to protect the endangered sea turtles by patrolling with local turtle guide at midnight until 4am!


Set in Northern Carribean, a small town with only around 500 inhabitants and surrounded by jungle rivers on one side and Carribean sea on the other side, Parismina is only accessible by boat and is the nesting ground of three kinds of sea turtles, including green turtle, leatherback and hawksbill sea turtle. Well, July is one of the peak month for nesting of green turtles and we are on time.


No wonder it's said to be the wettest place in Costa Rica, the village roads are covered with dark sand and water. And it rains everyday.




We took a bus in San Jose at the Caribe terminal to Siquirres, which took us almost 2.5 hours, had a short walk for 5 minutes before getting on another bus to Cano Blanca . A good 2.5 hours along banana plantations, we finally reached the pier. Then we waited for a small boat for 18. In 15 minutes, we arrived Parismina, finally.


Being a volunteer cost us US$75 each (US$35 for registration and US$10 daily for participation with a minimum of 5 days, but we asked for 4). Then we have a choice of home staying (which cost US$27 per person per night) with villagers or camping. The camp site managed by Alex, was quite nice, costing around US$5 per night, per person, and there are cabins too. Since no one staying in the campsite and it was raining all the time, we finally settled down in the cabin. Alex got us bed linen, fan, stove, gas, cutlery, dishes, plates, cup, unchained the fridge and we got the long abandoned kitchen and our room nicely setup.


At the ASTOP office, we got a short briefing, a set of notes and was told to patrol at 1200-0400 that night. Two local girls walked us around the small village and we had our own time thereafter.


The village got a lot of coconut but looks like everything were brought from outside. Food are extremely expensive! A pack of half kilo frozen chicken cost almost HK$80! We finally settled for some eggs. one onion, some tomatoes, some really artificial sausage and some rice.


After having dinner, we took a nap and headed for our first night of patrol.


It was raining heavily. We arrived at the patrol station almost 15 minutes ahead. There were already 2 people there, Miguel and Jennifer. Then 2 more guys came along.


We followed Miguel along the way. We had a really long walk along the dark soft beach, they prefer walking without light or turned on their red light torch once in a while.


I was holding Adley's hand tight as I was not used to the darkness, walking in haste and occasionally kicked on some woods along the beach.


It was almost 1.5 hour south before we met Jennifer and her partner again. They found a sea turtle! The trace was like tires on the sand, clear parallel lines of flaps moving upwards towards the shore. They was discussing in Spanish and we didn't get anything. We stood there waiting under the rain while dozing off standing and getting chilled.


Then Miguel asked us to move forward, and there she started! We all stand behind the mother turtle and Jennifer was kneeling on the sand, crawling down to catch her eggs in the arm length deep hole, with gloves and plastic bag ready.


This green sea turtle made a nest in the sand by her flips and when she thinks its deep enough, she started to lay eggs. 

Because we cannot use flashlight, we cannot take photos, but the following youtube was quite the same as what we saw.

Mother turtles might crawl up the beach and return to the ocean right away if she thinks the environment is not most appropriate, like having dogs around, human with strong perfume or mosquito repellents. Her hearing is excellent but shortsighted, hence, we are advised to wear dark clothes, refrain from using perfume nor mosquito repellents and no photographs nor video. But green turtles have an instinct to return to their own birth place to nest their eggs. Amazing!


The eggs comes one by one in varies pace. We were standing right next to her, at her back, seeing the eggs coming out. And there were 96 of them!


Jennifer and her partner took the eggs to the ASTOP guarded nesting ground, to have the eggs on watch, so as to avoid dogs and poachers. While we stayed with Miguel waiting and overseeing the mother turtle returning to the ocean before we go. Since green turtles are considered local delicacy but illegal for hunting. to make sure she is safe, we stayed to make sure she went back to the ocean.


Then our guide grasped me to somewhere nearby, while Adley watching over the mother turtle. There was another bigger one! But she walked up and returned to the water again.


We returned to the patrol base and on our way, discovered another turtle trace.


Mother turtle was already gone but our guide managed to find another pile of eggs. There were 85 of them.


Our guide carefully put them in a plastic bag with gloves and we took them to the guarded hatching ground, by burning deep into the sand.


That was a fruitful night and we returned all wet for another cold water shower and good sleep.

Hot Spring in Colombia

After waking up in our host little farm (with a horse, a duck and a bunch of chickens) in Pereira, we made some arepa (corn cake), juice and played with the 3 months old energetic little black cat, we set off to Santa Rosa Termales.


(Note: termales is hot spring, but tamales is typical local food, corn flour dough wrapped by corn ear and steamed, with chicken and meat inside, taste and looks like Chinese rice dumpling).


We reached the bus terminal by bus, then found a van heading Santa Rosa de Cabal, an one hour scenic ride to the countryside. From somewhere near the market, we caught a chiva (amusement park kind of bus with long wooden bench seats and need to climb up from one side), which cost us COP$2500 each (HKD 12). .


The chiva drove pass the plaza as well, guess it would be easier to find from there. We just saw it on the street and ran to catch it.


After almost 45 minutes ride, passing a lot of hostels and restaurant promoting their chorizo santarosana, (which I really wanted to try) we arrived a termales, which looks like a theme park. Costing COP$30,000 each.


The driver told us the returning chiva will be 4pm and it was already 1pm. Wanting to find something cheaper, Adley insisted walking on. It was a wide rocky path uphill and after 15 minutes, we arrived a hotel complex with hotspring.


It cost us COP$40,000 (even more expensive) but we were attracted by the fact that we could pay credit card (with better rate than our ATM cash) and the termales got some very nice waterfalls of hot water faling to the pool!


We checked that there will be a return bus at 7pm, costing only COP$1,200@ back to Santa Rosa town and thought we could just soak in the pools for the whole afternoon! So, we entered!


The hot spring was wonderful! Though there was only one big pool for spa guests, it was wonderfully set next to the cool waterfall. And on the other side, another artificial waterfall that gave hot water. In addition, there were 3 others smaller pools for hotel guests only. I didn't know that and soaked in one of them and the staff told me apologetically that I should leave...errrr ok.


Those two waterfalls are really nice though, we could soak in the hot water, then get the refreshing waterfall shower for a change.


They got massage service and catering as well, some guests would be drinking cold beer, cola, icecream and having a head massage while soaking in the steaming hot pool.


We were a pair of poor backpacker with no money to enjoy such luxury. But, we went up to the source of the waterfall, which is really scenic. We also got some fresh cold water from the waterfall for drinking, which is equally refreshing. It was a 10 minutes mini hiking track but nice and quiet, with different kind of beautiful birds around.


Night fell. After soaking and resting in this little paradise of steam and heat for almost five hours, we caught the 7pm bus, occupied mostly by staffs. (Most locals came here by driving.)


The bus passed the town but not the central plaza. We were confused and waited till the last stop, however it was on the other side of the town of Santa Rosa. A taxi driver stopped us and told us that we better took a cab as it was dangerous to walk there at this time. We ignored his advise but walked rapidly across the valley. It was a long ten minutes walk, which felt like ages, but we managed to reach the main street safe and sound. We found a little shop that soldl chorizo with arepa. Our host in Pereira told us not to return without enjoying the sausages. And its the most famous chorizo in Columbia. It was very heavily marinated and rather salty. We managed to find a carnerceria and got some home to share with our couchsurfing host, Lina and her family.


Something interesting happened when we were in the small shop having chorizo con arepa, a young girl approached us, asked where we were from and said she wanted to show us something. She asked for my hand to tide a bracelet and asked me to make a wish before tiding. And said the wish will come true. A lot of south america normad were making those friendship knots to sell for money, but she seems to be friendly and I didn't know how to say no to her.


Then she asked, ' now you need to give me something, as exchange'. She wanted to give one to Adley too, which he refused. I was thinking to offer my single earring (which the other one was lost somewhere earlier) but Adley was quick in offering a bookmark from Ecuador and gave her a long beautiful description.


She smiled with thanks but folded to bookmark in her palm in no time! (oops! Sorry darling!)


Then a bunch of kids approached us selling some fruity ice in straw for COP$100@. We refused but they curiously surrounded us and wanted to know where we were from. We asked their names and wrote them the Chinese translation. They were crazy about traditional Chinese writing and request us to write on their arm like tatoo! Suddenly we were surrounded by them queueing up for the quick tatoo! It was so much fun.


Afterwards, we went elsewhere to eat grill pork in stick and a sauteed meatball with an egg inside. They were nice. It's a pity that we are short of cash to get some beer.


We caught a bus back to Pereira easily on the mainstreet and went home to grill the sausage with some potato, then went to salsa with Lina until middle of the night!


It was a salsa club with only salsa music and nothing else. We bought some aquardiente (Columbia alcohol with Anis, taste like herb or medicine and drink in a small shooter glass, straight) and local rum to get drunk and dance the night away!

Hotspring-ing in Oyacachi

Thanks to Carla our host in Quito, Ecuador, we knew a hot-spring near the city. It is in Oyacachi, a small village among mountains of over 3000 meters high. She said there are not many people going there. So we go.


Going there is not easy, Carla had learnt the hard way of going there by truck from a crossroad and it was not cheap (more than USD 10 one way). We searched on internet for cheaper way by taking public bus and there was only one bus per day supposedly starting from Cayamba (1.5 hour from we were) at 7am. That means we had to wake up very early.

on the crossroad to Cangahua, on the way to Cayambe,

So we woke up at 5am, took off at 5:30, 15 minutes walk to the bus station and got a bus to Cayambe at 6am. Seeing that we may miss the 7am bus, we took off a few kilometer before Cayambe, on a cross road to Cangahua and caught a bus into the smaller town Cangahua.


There we realized that the bus to Oyacachi took off actually at 8am on Sunday. Therefore we went with local people with that bus (which was cheaper, only USD 2.5 from Cangahua), to the hot-spring. On the way, there was beautiful scenery of the snow-capped mountain and fields. After two hours we were in the Oyacachi village.

It was Sunday, so there were many families going to the hot-spring for a day of dip. So did we but just for the morning because the public bus going back would leave at 2pm. There we had at least of three hours of hot-spring, which was quite enough for us. The weather was cool; we where among the green mountains with fog and cloud. The hot-spring was next to the river where people can fish trucha (trout). The entrance fee was cheap (only USD 3 each, the cheapest we had in South America so far).

There were many pools for the cloud and place for camping. We would have done that if we had enough time to plan (maybe we shall go next time). There was even a family doing barbecue there. It is a good and cheap resort for Sunday family activity.


After three hours of dip, we had some lunch and enjoyed the view around. Then we walked around the small village, where there was some sustainable tourism facilities, like local trout and cheese production. We bought a locally-made cheese. There was also artistic wood-carving showing the local talent. We were also introduced by the tourist information about a local trek, as part of the sustainable eco-tourism project, in which people can hire a guide for a two-day jungle trek or just one day hike without a guide. There are so much to do that our morning was not long enough to enjoy the nature and scenery.

the lovely calf we met in the village

We missed the village when we left, with the hope that one day we shall be back to enjoy it more.

這天，我們當了火車去Machu Picchu

對於要花過百美元一程的火車票，更平的方法就是沿火車軌走過去。

這方法在網上被提及已經是三年前的事了，現在這方法或許不行: 可能火車公司會僱更多的守衞不准外人進路軌，或隧道太長太窄使我們不能在火車班次之間穿越隧道，我真的感到憂慮。但是在Cusco聽到Couchsurfing朋友的同事說她剛在上個夏天走過這路, 我就放心一點，只餘下擔心怎樣避過管理員走入路軌。

行動是從Ollantaytambo開始，跟着網上所說經驗是要早上5時到一處叫82Km (應該是指從Cusco到這兒的路軌距離為82公里) 的地方進入路軌。我們約早上五時半到了Ollantaytambo的廣場找車，大部份三輪車和房車的士都要收40 soles (約百二港幣), 跟網上討論區的4 soles所提到的相差很遠。最後因為不想擔誤太多時間而不能竄進路軌，有一架房車的士收30 soles 我們也照殺 (港幣90元總比每人50美元便宜 - 由Ollantaytambo至Aqua Calientes 的火車費)。司機看來是初入行的，我要看著iphone南美地圖不斷叫他往前去， 在Piscacucho 路口再轉進村沿路軌一直往河谷鑽，約半小時車程後我們見到路的盡頭是一火車站，天光了一點，那兒已經有一個人在站崗，我們問司機開車走遠多一點點避過了這人。車停下後司機好像走遠過他之前認為的路程，要求收50soles。老婆手裏有兩張20 soles,這樣就給了他 (如果她有張10 soles, 我就會堅持給 30 soles, 無理由給司機坐地起價), 他欣然收了就駛走了 (這代表我們付多了應付的)，餘下來我們望住河谷和火車站，就只有找路進路軌。幸運地我們找到小徑入路軌，我們急步盡快離開車站。不久就見到 一班本地人背着大包迎面走來 (後來發覺有不少人沿路軌住，靠沿路軌走出城)，他們向我們打招呼，好像不覺得我們這樣走是甚麼問題，那就好了。

這兒也是印加步道(Inca Trail)的起點，每年數以萬計的行山遊客在這裏留下脚毛，每人付至少400美元行這條40多公里的三日兩夜旅程，沿途有厨師和背夫(或有驢仔)跟團，行上雪山再行落河谷森林，最後行到Machu Picchu。以前是印加帝國的古道，其實印加路線還有很多，我們不太需要抱着人去我去的心態。這條火車路其實本身也應該是一條沿河谷的古道，因為我們沿途也看見印加的古蹟，我們進去這些古蹟是免費的。

古蹟一

我們出發後約一小時做看到第一個建築，這是梯形建築的田或堡壘，我們在這裏吃早餐及看在山上的日出。第一班從 Ollantaytambo 的火車也開出了。在之前一晚我在買火車票的地方紀錄火車單線雙程行車的開出時間，好讓我們對來的火車有準備。當我們正繼續上路之際，有一個來至法國的年青人和我們同一方向來。原來他也不知道這條路線，也沒有在網上找資料，只是一廂情願地想既然有火車路，人就可以行的想法。他在南美已遊了大半年，帶了營，所以他慳了不少宿舍錢。

古蹟二

我們一起走了大半段路，途中經過其他的印加古蹟，亦看到高山和河谷，景色也算優美。亦經過可攀石的石面，及可以露營的梯田，還有水喉送水，我極推薦背包客可帶營慢行，不需要一天就走完路，沿途可欣賞建築及河谷景色。只是我不太喜歡在路軌上走，因為要經常集中精神免踏錯。火車繼續在我們之間穿插，司機都很好心地鳴笛讓我們知道。甚至有秘魯火車公司的司機向我們舉起拇指，從印加古蹟管理員口中我們是幾個月才出現的幾個路軌行者。雖然沿途有不少隧道，但全部都是很短，急步一點很快過完。

這石是可以爬的

可以露營用的水喉

可以露營的梯田

隧道很短,一眼望哂

古蹟三

 
走得有點慢，我們讓年青人先行，我們享受二人世界；老婆有點累，要休息多一點。地勢由山區變成像熱帶雨林 一般，跟着之前古蹟管理員的提醒，我們還要小心有蛇，所以盡量踩路軌而非軌邊舖了樹葉的小路。當我們走到106km 有一條橋過對面的印加建築，後來我們知道這是一日行山遊往Machu Picchu的開始。再往前走一點，大包大包的癈膠樽推在路軌邊，可想而知旅遊業活動做成環境的破壞。其實沿路軌也有不少從火車抛下來的垃圾，正如在網上 討論區提到杯葛火車的理由提到，一來火車做成環境污染，二來亦有本地人因火車公司要收多些遊客錢而在之前的站被趕下車，我們沿途找到兩個墓碑，看來是起這鐵路犠牲的工人。

 

我們約在下午三時來到 MachuPicchu 山下的小鎮 Aqua Calientes，花了點時間找便宜的旅館 (55soles 兩晚)，早睡早起，明天上山做遊客。