里約熱內盧Day3

朱朱家裡有煤氣爐但無煤氣，我們用電多士爐做芝士火煺飛碟。吃過早餐，便到附近逛。

裏面唔准影相, 有啲相係偷映

途經那座美輪美煥的國立圖書館，原來在葡萄牙人入主時興建，材料由葡萄牙、德國等輸入。查詢之下，下午一時有免費英文導賞，我們先行登記，逛逛其他的地方再回去。


附近有大大小小的教堂，也是歐陸式建築，唯有一座巨型的半圓形、平頂、石屎建築，附加一座金屬支架結構的鐘樓,原來是座大教堂.


巴西雖然沒有國教，但近80%人口也是天主教徒，很多教堂每天也有多台彌撒，而巴西嘉年華亦是跟據天主教的時間表進行。聖灰星期三（Ash Wednesday）以前五天是嘉年華的焦點，到了星期三便完結，然後是40天的四旬期（Lent），隨後便是復活節。


除了大量的街頭嘉年華派對，里約熱內盧嘉年華的重點項目是在Sambodomo舉行的森巴舞學校比賽，今年是由星期五、六、日，一連三天，由晚上八時到早上七時，通宵達旦。場館可容納近40萬人。未計炒價，門票由港幣350至5000不等，只要有錢，遊客更可買戲服及加入花車巡演行列。整場比賽，各參賽學校也要用一年來準備，是一盆大生意。每個學校的巡遊演出限時80分鐘，一列花車可以有十部八部，三、四層樓高，以人力在後面推，車上多則有三、四層表演者，可多至一百人；前後夾著一百又一百個排列整齊、穿上花巧戲服的演出者，加上間隙當中的一位森巴美女或穿非洲民族服飾的一男一女。每個演出有專人做資料捜集及服裝設計，以表達不同的故事與主題。


我們四處找門票，在酒店及旅行社仍有少量貴價票出售，但要港幣2500一張，只坐高座，實在有點貴。開演前一、兩天仲有飛，可能開咗場會減價？唉，再考慮先啦...


回到圖書館，上層原來是不對外開放，不能拍照。當中保存了遠至18世紀的古書，也有地圖、插畫集，亦有巴西所有早期到現今報紙、雜誌的存檔，而所有巴西印刷的書籍也必須送到這裡。要找資料的話，要証明其學術硏究的身份，便可在下層的査詢室申請提取資料。在國外亦以電話或電郵申請取閲micro film資料。檔案似乎相當完善。(AT: 呢個係有檔案法嘅好處,根據法例,所有喺巴西出版嘅刊物都要有一個副本放在國立圖書館; 政府文件一定要存檔. 喺香港, 對政府聲譽不利嘅文件已經以無位儲存為由銷毀囉)


之後，我們再從Centro往Lapa走，再上山往Santa Teresa。Lapa是一個酒吧區，若要看或試跳forró，可往此處，但嘉年華期間，卻只有blocks及samba。


Santa Teresa 是一個環境優美的住宅區，全是遠眺巿中心的雅緻花園小洋房。由Centro至山上本有古老電車連接，名為Bondinho de Santa Teresa，亦曾是巿內特色交通，及遊客必坐的交通工具，但那白色天橋Acros da Lapa好像封了，我們只好歩行上山。


後來在網上找到資料，原來2011年8月27日發生嚴重意外，電車脫軌5死57傷，列車便從此關閉，只留下路上的軌跡。


走路上山，會經過一條很有特色的瓷磚石階，原來是由一位人兄一磚一瓦的砌出來，而很多居民及旅客甚為欣賞，特意送來自己國家或珍藏的瓷磚，令此階梯成了景點。


下午Santa Teresa有街頭嘉年華，我們走上山時，四處的住宅也有奇妝異服的居民走出來，一起步行到山上的廣場Largo do Guimarães，那𥚃已有一群人聚集，但活動還末開始。


此區的緣起與自1750年山上修院的建立有關，因此很多居民，不管男女，也會以修女服作為扮嘢主題。


Largo do Guimarães是這區的中心地帶，有酒吧、餐廳、手工藝品店，也是嘉年華的聚集點。


活動還末開始，我們便在山上亂逛，經過一個公園和古宅Parque Das Ruínas，可遠逃Rio巿中心風光、Sugar Loaf 山景、海岸線及Lapa Arches。但又是因為嘉年華，關門了，我們只在鐵閘外偷看到一點點，真可惜。門外介紹說Parque Das Ruínas- Centro Cultural Laurinda Lobo 曾是貴婦兼文化金主Laurinda Santos Lobo 的大宅Murtinho Nobre Palace，是里約熱內盧的社交、文化重地，巴西名曲家Heitor Villa-Lobos 及現代舞祖師Isadora Duncan也曾作客於此。大宅後來由政府文化部門接手保育，由Ernani Freire操刀，保留了部份舊建築之餘加上一點以玻璃和金屬的現代設計，仍作音樂會及戶外演出之用。


走到山頂，又有一家由住宅改建的現代藝術博物館，Museu da Chácara do Céu，乃山上最好景的大宅，又是富翁之家。 Raimundo Otoni Castro Maya是一藝術私人收藏家，慷慨供諸同好，將府第變成博物館，其珍藏包括 Matisse, Jean Metzinger, Eliseu Visconti, Di Cavalcanti及Candido Portinari，但又是因為嘉年華，沒開門。


回到Largo do Guimarães，找到一個石欄上的好位置，看著人群唱歌、跳舞、整齊的打敲擊樂，已覺興奮不已。


看完parade，回家收拾，當晩又要搬到叧一家寄居了。


朱朱和高雲特意回家相送，仲話其實住多幾日都無問題。實在感動。


慳家嘅我哋背著擧步艱難嘅背囊坐地鐵，到站有個操極好英文的善心巴西青年，問我哋是否要幫忙，一直將我們帶到下一個host, Richard 的手上，無機會問佢乜名，就走了，我想他的名字叫天使。

Becoming part of a local family as Couch Surfers

Before our trip, we sought advise from our respected elderly, Father Giovanni, how we find the presence of God during our two years trip around the world, his left us some wise words after a few second of silence, 'if I were you, I won't take any photos, see the world with your eyes and meet people.


It's a visual oriented world, we can't help taking photos but we try to spend some extra time enjoying the moment.


When we face the stunning Iguazu Fall, after taking some pictures, we spend time sitting there quietly to look and listen. We could have sit there all day, if we could. It's paradise before our eyes...if there weren't hundreds of tourists with cameras, video cameras, cameramen doing business, fences for protection...okay let's focus on the stunning view...it's amazing.


In Buenos Aires, we are glad to join friends and family gatherings of our local friends, chatting and eating.


Argentinians love chatting, people we met on a bus, in a lift, in the street, in a milonga had so much to say, it's a pity that we don't quite understand Spanish.


We heard about couch surfing (CS) back in Hong Kong, with news that a single girl staying in some strangers house being raped... But we are a pair of couple and have nothing to fear, and do found the idea of home staying very interesting.


Frankly, this helps save cost for our two years travel but then we found the CS site have ways to protect their members and its not just about free stays. The main point of CS is not for saving cost but for people in different parts of the world connecting each other. Tourists know nothing about the locals, but travellers connect with them and know each other, a way is to CS.


Every member need to input their comprehensive profile and will have a list of reference. By being a host or a couch surfer, you actually know a lot about the people before you meet! (of course this may be fake, even so, you still need to write a long story!) It's such a great chance to experience life of a local, to share thoughts, food and culture.


For cost saving, we have thought of hitch-hiking along our way as well, there are some bloggers writing their hitch-hiking experience but we still feel at risk and may take very long time to get to our next destination. We'll save it for later until we become more desperate!


We gone crazy when we got our first host! (after sending almost a hundred requests daily, until the list exhausted). It's a family in Medianeira, a small town, one hour bus ride from Foz do Iguazu, in Brazil. It is a bit far away but we are glad having a chance to meet locals.


It's a 30 years old guy, Juracy, who lived with his parent and a dog. He speaks good English and just came back from Rome after staying a few years. His parent only speak Spanish, Portuguese and some English words. His extremely friendly mum, Catalina was from Venezuela and his father, also named Juracy, had spent some time in Russia - all very open minded people, who love to discuss matters including politics, history, culture, cooking and everything. They spare 2 rooms and receiving CS non-stop! It's simply amazing.

our Chinese fried noodles, they love it

We enjoy sumptuous meal made by mummy on the first night and we also shared some Chinese cooking, including sweet and sour rib, dumplings, Hong Kong egg cake... that they loved so much.

Chinese 3 color fried rice

The next night, they were joined by a German and Finland. We went to nearby lake for a swim, meeting Juracy and some family friends and it's like a fiesta every day.


 

Actually CS requests takes time, many prefer full profiles (which means you need to fill up a hundred page of info!!), the fact that you are an experienced CS with a lot of reference from previous CS and hosts, and they expect you to stay for only 2-3 days, so don't expect a week or more! And even if a room 'perhaps' available, it takes time to chat with the host and see if you like each other. They don't expect free stay as your only purpose, so generic request message won't work, do spend time to read the profile and get to know the person. In peak time like Brazil Carnival, Rio locals either host their friends, got CS request half a year ahead or plan to escape and leave some place else for a vacation!! It might be helpful sometimes to look for small towns nearby the big cities.

the couple on the left (Juracy and Catalina) are the host father and mother, a neigbour (Ana) who is the only chinese in the town, raised in Cuba, came and visited us

the white t-shirt guy in front is Juracy, thanks to him we have such a good time at Medianeira

Our stay in Medianeira is absolutely wonderful, I feel like children of the family and it's so quiet and enjoyable. Though our itinerary might not have much excitement, but chatting with the family, supermarkets tour, driving around town, trying out local pastries, cooking at home, a short trip to the river nearby, visiting family friends and have a chat and visiting their house are nice for us.


We are lucky to have two hosts in Rio real soon, which makes up a week there. We are still looking for someone to host us in San Paulo and other cities in Brazil. Keep faith and we are well taken care of to whatever plan He wanna take us.


Now is time to make some Chinese dumplings!

寄居蟹-里約熱內盧篇

在Foz do Iguaçu看了大半天令人驚歎的瀑布風光，我們依依不捨的離開。等車又轉車及取回儲物櫃的行李，我們差點趕不上那一天一班的長途巴士。結果，又跑又追，兵分兩路，由我先跑到巴士前截車，大暴龍則力王上身，一個人拿著兩個共重近60kg的大背嚢追上來。幸好，順利出發，坐上近20小時巴士往里約熱內盧去。


終於，到達里約熱內盧長途巴士站。


我們之前聽說里約熱內盧是兇險的罪惡之城，女遊客被拐失蹤、遊客被綁架、偷竊處處、持搶行劫等層出不窮，長途巴士站一帶更猶其混雜。我們節儉旅遊，其實只會選擇坐巴士或走路，但被Lonely Planet恐嚇巴士多扒手，滿以為草木皆兵，人人是賊，又拿著沈重的行裝及全副身家，甚是兇險，便坐的士去答應收留我倆的巴西女郎Julia家couch surfing。


車站外有的士長龍，但外線卻有人叫囂，為免被車到不知名的荒山野嶺男姦女殺，我們只好乖乖的繼續等。有三位德國妙女郎，之前與我們同車的，本排在我們前面卻箭步撲向外圏的那些的士裏，願她們平安。


終於排到了。到Centro（巿中心銀行商業區）要R$30(約HK$144)。後來，我們得知這距離只須R$15-20。


下車，找對了門口，是一個裝修時尚的大堂。保安員要我們從側門進入。可能是背包太大，或以為我們送貨上門！？


到了樓上，沒人應門。是不在家嗎？是我們去錯地方嗎？是日子不對嗎？


回到大堂，我們沒有本地電話咭，我們的香港電話也不能用，只好拜託管理員打電話給Julia，又是跟Buenos Aires一樣複雜的，大堂更亭的電話線不能打往手提，他用了自己手機打。打不通。管理員示意我們先將行李放在大堂，坐在沙發等。又一番勞力，將兩個大龜殻搬下樓，坐了一會，熱心的管理員仍再接再厲，終於找到屋主。因大暴龍不知到達時間，又怕延誤，寫了無零兩可的時間，令人家以為我們半夜才到，去了媽媽家吃飯。



已是8點多，重行李留了在大堂，我們出去逛，上了一家Lonely Planet推介的館子，叫Bar Louis，吃了一碟炸馬介休（味似crab cake，超正！）、一客焦黑牛扒（沒有問過你幾成熟但肉味尚可，還是懷念阿根廷的lomo)、幾杯德國生啤(有一杯盛了一半酒一半泡，竟肯重做，服務一流），承惠R$93(約HK$446)，香港價好OK，以我們的節儉原則來說，卻很奢侈，但舟車勞頓之後得自我奬勵一下。


10時許，終於有門口入。


Julia 與Cauan 是十分恩愛的一對，朱朱好客、溫柔又很會照顧人；高雲好動有幽默感。他們家很骨子，一廳、一房，廳的沙發可變沙發床（這次是真正的couch surfing), 廚房沒有gas, 只有多士爐、麵包夾、雪櫃、微波爐，是典型的「無飯」夫妻呢！我們不能在家做飯，但卻說好明天到Cauan爸爸家用廚房。


太好了！巴西的物價甚高，外吃午飯也要近R$20(HK$96)，只見很多「立食」店，提供三明治、飽、批、熱狗、鮮打果汁（這裏的果汁店似乎很受歡迎，三步一樓的，而可能因為天氣熱，冬天也只是最低10度，本地人如高雲是不喝熱飲的）、啤酒，站著吃也要這個價。上超巿買材料，同樣價錢可做一餐豐盛的五人晩餐。


說罷、說罷，就這樣過了Rio de Janerio的第一天。蒙主保佑，見的盡是好人。

巴西家庭之旅 - 下集

個火又唔勁,用來將牛骨飛水嗰煲水要成三個字先滾，有兩個couchsurfers (一個德國人,一個芬蘭人)九點半到，好彩有幾個壓力煲可以將排骨炆焾,又用另一個壓力煲煑牛骨湯，最後出爐有炆甜酸骨 (真好,可以用哂樽紅醋, 唔洗搬咁重)、番茄薯仔牛骨湯、牛骨湯煮飯、奶油津白。 九點九開飯。其間聽Juracy同嗰兩個女仔講德國及芬蘭歷史，仲比嗰兩個女仔多。餐飯當然啲餸無哂，剩番的飯仲可以留低日後炒飯。嗰晚吃得太飽煮得累，沒有出去跳舞了。

第三日起床有些晚，吃過沙樂美腸飛碟，Catalina媽媽話我哋昨日已經煮咗嘢，今日由佢煮。食食下飛碟，個德國女仔隻手俾隻chou chou 咬到，原來隻狗喺佢兜食物附近係生人勿近，嗰女仔隻手踵哂，有發炎跡象，但唔同人有唔同反應：個女仔都算鎮定，無叫，只係按住傷口行開，但面青口唇白、阿仔手掩面好苦惱咁樣、阿媽用番皂洗傷口，其實都好，之後我用自己私伙綳帶包佢個傷口止血及吸濃，但阿媽問過佢嘅朋友Ana做醫生個仔，佢話唔駛包，成塊綳帶拿走，嘥我心機兼嘥料。

之後我哋去嗰個醫生屋企，以為可以幫傷口做啲嘢，走到上去十樓(已經係當地少有啲高樓)，原來係陪Juracy為醫生講解去羅馬旅行嘅心得，後者對個傷口無乜點理。可能佢工作時間以外唔可以做工作嘅嘢掛？或者佢覺得無乜大礙...

之後我有得揸車，原來阿仔無車牌，佢揸車嚟接我地都只不過係偷雞，我有國際牌，適應一下左軚就膽粗粗揸上去高速公路，去附近一條河玩。喺公路我揸到限定100km都俾人嫌慢，下下要揸120，仲要入小路將架自動波當四驅車咁揸。去到條河，原來係一個家庭露營地，條溪啲水普通，喺乾旱嘅當地已經係難得玩水地方，我哋浸下水就揸車番屋企，媽媽已經煮好晚飯，有傳統嘅豆同飯、煮牛扒、沙律，仲有薑檸檬汁，簡單滿足的一餐吃得很開心。

最後一日無水，呢個地區無乜雨，就算喺一個大湖及大壩附近，都可以制水。其實媽媽平時好環保，洗碗廢水會叫老公攞去淋花、啲廚餘會用嚟做肥料、膠袋會洗過再用、用過嘅檸檬會用嚟洗碗。我用咗啲冷飯炒飯，一家食得開心，跟著成個晏晝無乜嘢做，只係上網，我準備煮苦瓜炒排骨(其實無鑊好難炒嘢，只好用阿婆留低嘅古董大鋼盤，唔係好受熱，炒唔起火氣)，M想用埋啲粉做水餃，因為無粘米粉做蘿蔔糕我就炒白蘿蔔算了，再加甜棘排骨。所有人都吃得高興，唯有白蘿蔔剩下，呢度啲人唔係點慣食，我哋就打包之後當午餐。

 

第五天我哋晨咁早要回Foz do Iguacu, 成家人早起同我哋送行，好感動。

呢個係一個很充實嘅巴西家庭體驗，多謝Juracy一家。我哋會番來探你哋呀。

巴西家庭之旅 - 上集

經過個半小時的車程, 兩旁的田地在落日下閃耀?  車廂在冷氣下舒服極了, 好為之前在烈日的街上給龜殼壓累了的身體充電. 終於來到 Medianeira, 幸好車站的公共電話可以打地線, 就聯絡上Juracy. 他駕車來接我們, 一個稚氣未泯的大個子, 他的英文不錯, 和我們溝通不難. 他和父母住在車站附近兩三條街的屋裏. 我所指的屋, 真的是屋, 單層, 有花園有車房, 一進屋, 熱情的媽媽給我們大大的擁抱, Juracy的爸爸也叫Juracy, 走出來不容易在興高采烈的媽媽身後找個身位和我們握手。Juracy的父母只懂少許英文, 他便幫忙翻譯。 為了方便分辨兩父子, Juracy在爸爸前被媽媽叫Juracito (the little Juracy). 母親Catalina是委內瑞拉人, 她在我們來之前已經預備晚餐, 我們當日沒有去看Iguazu瀑布, 早些出發來Medianeira, 不要一家人等我們吃飯. 和我們打招呼的還有一隻chou chou有十二歲, 也不年輕了.


開心地飲過冰凍的啤酒 (全家人都喜觀飲啤酒) 當天晚餐是咖哩肉醫意粉, 煮小扁豆,及沙津, 小扁豆像切開一半的小青豆, 用豬肉, 洋蔥, 薯仔煮, 很易飽, 是Juracy 特別叫Catalina看食譜學來煮的, 他說這是巴西的傳統食物,我們定要試, 她還特地調一種有薑及薄荷的檸檬涷飲, 薄荷是她在花園自己種的. 之後他們想帶我們去跳舞, 但我們經過一天勞碌, 又想上網 (Juracy特地買了一個wifi router, 我幫他安裝好, 大家happy, 阿爸唔駛同個仔爭電腦上網, 可以一齊用自己電腦上網, 而我們也可坐收漁人之利,開行兩部電腦勁上)把瀑布之旅放上網, 便捥拒了. 原來他約了自己朋友蒲吧, 那麼高消費的事就免了,


原本我們睡Juracy的睡/書房 (裏面的床只是一張梳化床), 他在父母的套房打地舖, 我們表示不好意思, 但他說較喜歡有冷氣的套房. 其實當晚也有另一對couchsurfers (Juracy都幾好客) 來但行程延誤了, 所以我們就睡了另一間原本安排給她們的雙人房一晚, 當晚也悶熱, 幸好有風扇, Catalina 建議把大風扇向窗,把蚊吹出,其實我一早就燒蚊香...


第二天我們起床, 已經見Catalina煲咖啡, 桌面放了面包和芝士. 吃過早餐, 我們開始了在Medianeira的超市觀光, 買些我們煮中餐的材料. 去了三間超市,各有平貴,阿媽同個仔都無帶錢(我估唔會老馮掛), 我哋去第一間較貴的超市買咗大部份嘢: 青紅黃椒、白蘿蔔(之後M先發現唔夠粘米粉)、洋葱、牛骨、茄子, 之後去另一間買芽菜,成港幣廿蚊斤,好貴...但呀仔鐘意食,又可以用嚟炒麵, 買。去最後一間,阿媽有account, 唔駛我哋俾錢, 買咗排骨, salami. 番屋企成一點，快快炒咗個面，大家吃得很開心。

食完午飯個鎮唯一一個中國人Anna嚟探我哋,佢喺廣東五十年代去咗古巴(當時係唯一出國方法),做餐館工人至退休,跟做醫生嘅仔去到巴西定居,而家已經七十多歲。佢帶咗自己種嘅苦瓜，可以整苦瓜炒排骨(但係無豆豉,到時improvise啦). 跟住陪佢行去佢個女屋企，見到佢孫女,就嚟讀大學,都幾靚架.有兩隻好大隻嘅狗, 我哋睇下佢種苦瓜嘅花園,同時發現有一棵喺樹幹生出似提子狀嘅莓子. Anna 同我哋傾到唔捨得我哋走,但係我要炆排骨要多啲時間煮飯. 之後我哋走路回家,經過Juracy朋友一家人坐在屋外談天, 原來?家人老婆婆過世, Juracy 感到震驚,我們又喺度坐嚟傾, 有個後生仔讀英文同我哋練習. 就嚟天黑我哋先走到, 成七點半先開始煮飯.


我得番個半小時煮飯,又要煲牛骨湯又要炆排骨,點煮呀?

The jaw-dropping Iguazu - II

On the next day we woke up early, made breakfast with the remaining gas, thanks to the next door neighbour who borrowed gas to boil water for our pasta. We packed everything and started off at 10:30 am (the next tenant was waiting from 10am for us moving out. It was a walk of 5 blocks under heavy rucksack. We dropped everything in the bus station and went to the Iguazu theme park for the second time.

We went to what we missed last time, the lower level of the fall near the cataratas station. There we saw the birds which hanged themselves on the side of the cliff next to the water fall. We also grasp a good look of the falls at the path to the "ferry" for San Martin Island; got soaked for free (not by joining the boat tour) but walked very closely to a fall.

Time ran quick and it was 3pm already, we went to the Diabo Throat again. Because of the rain last night there were much more water and it was more noisy and breathtaking. I can't resist taking the picture for the self-portrait. In the evening time the sun was falling and in that direction we can see a clear rainbow on the throat (we did the day before with a full rainbow bridge too). The view will be one of our best memories in the trip and we wanted more. 




Not eager to leave, we did and back on the bus to Foz du Iguazu, the Brazilian town next to the Fall and there we found the youth hostel for camp easily. Now we were in Brazil.

Foz de Iguazu, starting the Brazilian side

After visiting the Iguazu, we went back to Puerto Iguazu, got on the bus and went to Foz de Iguazu, the Brazilian town near Iguazu Fall. We took off 3 blocks ahead and had to walk 6 blocks to the youth hostel. To Maria, it was really tough, finally we got the HI hostel. It was Maria's first time in a youth hostel, for shared kitchen and bathroom. (M: I had been in summer camps staying in dorm or minzuku in Japan with private room and shared bathroom, no kitchen, but camping in youth hostel, with locker is my first!) The grassland was good for camping. There was also wifi. The cost was not cheap though. For camping, it cost R$17 per person (1R$=HK$4.6). There was also a small swimming pool. The staff were friendly and could speak English well. It was a perfect place.


When we settled down it was 7:30pm already. Glad that we have self-made pizza to heat up for dinner. We rushed to the nearby supermarket, which closed at 8pm, to buy beer. We should have brought the empty bottles in the hostel so we needn't pay extra R$2 for 1L beer bottle! We had a good dinner, good shower, good sleep in tent. Thanks to God that there was no rain.


The next day, we were supposed to wake up and go to the Brazilian side of Iguazu Fall, but we did not realize that it was 11am already when we went out (we should turn the clock one hour faster). Seems a waste for the expensive entrance fee if we go to the national park for the waterfall and rush to our host family afterwards, so in the afternoon, we did window shopping in the street of Av Brazil, where Maria bought a locally made sport bra (R$26, while imported one could cost R$120).

We went back to the hostel, go online, packed and missed the swimming pool, then walked to the bus stop to Rodovianria (bus terminal) for the bus to Medianeira, where our first CS host Juracy was). So "lucky" that the bus stop nearby was blocked because of road maintenance and we did not know where the next bus stop was. We had to walk 3 blocks to find one, another torture to Maria with her heavy backpack.


Finally we were in the bus terminal, getting the ticket and hopping onto the comfortable bus, then started our new episode staying with a local family in the coming four days.

The jaw-dropping Iguazu - I

After a hard time finding an apartment to stay in Puerto Iguazu, we were settling there for three days and two nights (with discount costing 150peso with kitchen and air-conditioning but no wifi) to see the Argentine side of Iguazu Fall. Being tortured by the heavy backpack, Maria was finally satisfied with all-you-can-eat parrilla (BBQ) on the street costing 50 peso each. It was kind of expensive in our budget, but to make Maria happy again, it was an easy way, to let her smile again by eating and drinking. I am glad to have a wife whom I know how to satisfied.


The next day we started early, took a bus to the theme-park-like Argentine Iguazu. We went straight to the Diabo Throat, which awed all visitors. So were us, our jaws dropped to see all water dropping to the abyss, the fog resulted from the water fall covered the air that we couldn't see the bottom of the valley. 

 

We were there for a long time, not taking pictures but to stand there, gazing at the fall for a long long time, feeling the power of the fall, while other tourists just stood there to take pictures for themselves.

After we paid 400 peso for the moonlight walk the same night (we were lucky to be on the second last night for a full moon trip that participants went in again after the park was closed), we walked the Macuco Trail. Expecting some wildlife, but after one hour walk we saw nothing but big spiders and coati. We went to a pool for a dip. The water was not clear but many locals go there for a dip (local only paid 10 peso to enter the theme park).

Disappointed and it was 4pm already, we went to the upper level of the falls near catarata station. Before we could cover the lower level, it went dark and it was still 6pm (when the park closed) and there were still two and a half hour before the gathering time of the moonlight walk. We went into the Sheraton hotel to hang out in the lobby. Although we cannot have wifi, we could sit in air-conditioning with sweaty clothes and see the Diabo Throat fall away behind glass.

The adventure came: the sky turned cloudy and we did not know that the moonlight walk was canceled. The last bus from the hotel and the park back to Puerto Iguazu ended. Either we had to pay 120 peso for remis (local taxi) back, or walk to the gate of the park for trying some luck on hitch-hiking. We chose later. Maria was very tensed about this, believing the propaganda that there were fierce animals in the park after dark and the punishment of wandering in the park after closing. Personally (also with the habit of breaking rule) I don't think so after the disappointment of seeing no wildlife in the Macuco Trail.  It was a nice walk on the road at the middle of the national park with moonlight behind cloud. (M: was so worried about a wild cat popping up to bite us, but when our eyes get used to the night, I see light in front of me and felt that we are safe and God is within us and we are well taken care of.) We finally went to the gate, got the refund from the moonlight walk. (M: with the help of a staff, who drove us back to the main gate from a staff area) It was nice of them to refund right away. It would have been different if this happened in China, which would not bother to give refund so quickly, or even none. Luckier was that we met two workers waiting for remis back to town and we could share the fare with them (100 peso shared by four). One was a photographer and another was the powerboat captain.

Finally we went back to Puerto Iguazu, did some shopping in the supermarket. Making cuadril (M: As bife de chorizo sold out, the butcher recommended this, he said the meat taste even better, though not as tender, it was good!) and made pizza for the next day and cookies as snacks. Probably we cooked too much, when we start boiling some water, all the gas in the apartment was used up. Though, we had the next lunch and dinner prepared.

阿根廷長途巴士之旅 - Iguazu中篇

中途又再次停車休息，瞇眼看了一下，繼續找周公子去。


一覺醒來已是早上六點，司機開了燈，說了幾句，所有人拿行李下車。有個洋妞（後來知道原來來自英國）看了一下與同伴說：passport check, will be staying here for an hour! (心想：咁快到？）


又有隣座好心媽媽見我倆仲頭鱷鱷，便說：Vamos....Otro....（其他聽唔明）再看看環境，原來要轉車及轉司機。下車看一下，行李已由四個大隻司機搬好，所有人上了車，即走。


好奇怪，巴士駛到對面馬路，司機才好像忽然記起似的，走出來點人數。大暴龍乘機問佢可否在 Puerto Iguazu（阿根廷那邊下車，他說可以。


往後幾小時，邊打瞌睡，邊欣賞小鎭、森林、牧場、馬場的寧靜。忽然，車上一陣騷動，車尾的乘客走向司機室說：... Por favor...司機出來走到車尾的廁所...原來有個男人在廁所偷偷吸煙，被教訓了幾句，又回復空調聲和有電視沒開機的平靜。


香港的朋友坐飛機到Puerto Iguazu來回只須Ar$1500,還早機去（早上7點幾）晩機返（黃昏6點幾），為看一下一生必到的瀑布，也是值得。


但我們有的是時間，而行程尚要繼續，不回Buenos Aires了，還是坐巴士比較適合。


又是下車午飯、上廁所的時候，仲有幾遠呀？

阿根廷長途巴士之旅 - Iguazu上篇

雖聞說omnibus 網頁全英文之餘，車票價格與Retiro omnibus站一樣，我身邊的格價專家絶不會放過任何慳得就慳的可能性，終於，我們去了四次Retiro omnibus站...


第一次，到了巴士售票樓層，發現那𥚃大到有點似迷宮。定眼再看，原來櫃位各區以東西南北來劃分。從Retiro為起點，有各式各樣的巴士公司前往阿根廷，甚至南美的各個地區、城市，應有盡有。


我們在直接前往巴西Rio de Janeiro、或是先到Iguazu瀑布，還是難以取捨，便先問價錢。一般單程前往阿根廷那邊的Puerto Iguazu是Ar$450-550;而單程前往Rio則是Ar$600-825。


以有限西語，續間訪尋之下，終於找到一家巴西公司Pluma價格最低，到Rio只是Ar$580，而巴西那邊的Foz de Iguazu才Ar$350！我們決定回去再surf下有冇再平啲！


上網睇完一餐，發覺佢已係最平，又怱發奇想，那巴士會停Foz 再去Rio，不知可否買Rio車飛，在Iguazu溜幾天？笫二天又再去踫運氣。


一筆大交易，拿著信用咭和護照出發去。


我們比手劃腳，解釋了我們的企圖，售票小姐居然說沒問題，並只須Ar$550！但他們只收現金！問好週日的辦公時間後，（他們週日竟辦公！）只有明天請早。


第三天，車票終於到手！我們更巡視了一篇在哪裡照行李和登車。


同時，我們一直在嘗試couch surfing,寄了request給幾乎所有的iguazu區及Rio的CS會員。在99%的被拒，終於得到了一個住在距離Foz de Iguazu一小時車程的家庭收留；在Rio亦有一位女生讓我們借宿幾天（感恩！）又那女生之前會離家，比我們計劃的遅了一天，只好將離開Foz de Iguazu的時間退一天，那玩盡阿根廷及巴西兩邊瀑布公園之餘，又可了解一下本地人的生活。


又回到巴士售站，還在擔心往Rio的巴士只是一、三、五，只推遅一天成嗎？或許，由巴西Iguazu往Rio的班次比較頻密，不用加錢 ，順利完成！


終於，到了離開Buenos Aires 的日子，我背著肯定有30kg的backpack再在前面加了個小背囊，行3個block去坐巴士，呼吸開始有點困難；大暴龍則氣定神閒跟在我後面，不久便超越了。


巴士6：30pm開出，車票上建議5pm到達。我們5：30pm才到，過X-ray，再到巴士公司櫃檯check-in也算順利。只到登車樓層再過X-ray 入閳，等15分鐘前上車。


我們的巴士票比較cheap，坐椅並非flat bed，但尚算闊落，cushion厚厚的，又可伸腳，18小時，尚可接受。


司機有兩個，會輪更駕駛，開車時司機艙更會關上門。


開車前，機長走在路口打了個招呼，宣佈最重要的事項：厠所在車尾但不能開大！（心想，開出又可以點呢？幸好，這𥚃不是大陸，這邊的人雖會亂拋垃圾，但對讓座、上廁所、放飛劍等尚有一定程度的公德心。）


車子準時開出，往公路進發。八點，天色漸暗，開飯！

沒有太大的期望，便𣎴感失望。由司機派飯盒，有半份芝士三明治、半份加了火腿（大暴龍全份只有芝士）、一個肉肶，一塊甜到喊嘅Dulce de Leche餅（送mate fit哂）、仲有一塊有一點果占在中央好甜好奶味嘅餅,同冇得俾你㨂嘅冰凍可樂一罐 - 當然可揀唔飲。（隔咗幾粒鐘又開始肚餓，想起先前餐餐fiesta, 仲好想食lomo同bife de chorizo...)


食完冇人會收tray,只有一位似乎係熱心巿民嘅，用番派tray嘅膠袋收自己屋企人d嘢，再好心收多幾行！


車行至11點多，到了一家有嘢賣、有嘢食、有厠所去，但除了一家油站，眼見之處四野無人嘅地方，停了半小時。


又肚餓，食碗燒鵝瀨都唔錯。發下夢先...

Back to tango again y class y practica

A good thing about staying in Palermo is that it is so near to tango classes, milonga, practica and all related shopping.


There is a tango school only few blocks away, DNI Tango. DNI is a school by Dana with very systematic teaching and instructor training. New teachers get trained by observing classes of more experienced teachers. They can sustain by leading one on one practica costing less than private class, but as they are experienced dancers, for us, they are good enough to give feedback and advise. We took a group class and the practica featuring Gaby and his partner. In the practica I tried to review what I learnt in group classes so far. Either I forgot, especially for AyA class, or I was stuck in putting what I drew on paper to my body. Feeling frustrated about the time and money spent on that, I lost mood in taking more classes. (M: Dancing is about body memory, which takes time. Instead of using your brain, just let your body move repetitively with some new steps until the movement becomes part of you...I'm not a good dancer, as I'm lazy! :P )


Going to Pablo and Noelia's practica was an enjoyment. It was a bar on a first floor of Independencia and Columbus. The owner of the dance place, full of titles on floor and wall, has a pair of adorable twin boys with blonde curly hair running around with full energy. Costing only 20 peso each, the class and practica also served pies, cakes and Mate. We finally tasted mate here. Everyone shared the cup and drank from the same straw, that is common here. Mate served here tastes less spicy than those I had in HK, and more soothing.


Back to the classes.


I'm learning to be more aware about the chest movement and my partner's comfort, and being more conscious of relaxing my spine which affect my axis. Still having a lot of problems remembering steps sequences, through body and brain. Drawing steps down doesn't work because it can't describe intention and leading. So far I haven't felt much comfort dancing here except once in la galeria.


More work to be done...

阿根廷長途巴士之旅 - Iguazu下篇

終於、終於看到一片寫著Puerto Iguazu 的草地，再轉多幾個彎，車還未停定，所有人已拿著護照站起來。下午3時許，我們已不經不覺到達阿根廷邊境。


但我們先前已拜託司機要在Puerto Iguazu下車，這裡可以離開嗎？還是他其實不明白我們在說啥？我倆憨居居的拿了手提行李下車，跑上前向司機查詢。原來巴士要根據乘客名單過境，所以我們要先跟大隊過完關才可以拿行李走。


之後半個鐘又出境、又入境，才上了回Puerto Iguazu鎭的巴士。大熱天時（超過37度）背著牛龜咁大件行李（我覺得件行李重過我！），行咗幾個block，已得番半條人命。最後，我們決定一個坐下看行李，另一個出去找。行哂成個鎮，續家續戶問價，終於找到價錢可以接受，又有房的客棧。到個男人返來，話出發，行咗五條街先發現行錯路，我行到喊，只覺好倦、好辛苦，結果又要通通放下行李重新找...


天都黑齊，個男人租到房，走回來，終於決定打的到住處。那裡有廚房、有冷氣，可住一家7口，房價Ar$300兩晩，算不錯。之後，出去吃了一餐Ar$50位任食parillya豪一豪佢，狂叫lomo, bife de chorizo, ribs...開心番哂！

New home, Tigre again, and la fiesta del lomo

Thanks to Anne, Carrie and Eva, who let us couch surf at their apartment for a week before going to Iguazu and Brazil.


We are comfortable there and more importantly we can keep cooking daily.


With the prelude of soy sauce chicken, dumplings and sweet and sour ribs (by Nathalie) for the ladies, Gaby, Eva and Fernando in celebrating Lunar New Year before we moved in, we are turing every meal to a fiesta at the house during our stay. Good food is best to share! I'm glad to feed the ladies well.


The groceries in the area of Palermo is 10-20% more expensive than San Telmo but the pavement is in better condition. So Maria needs less attention on walking. (M: so Adley need less attention over the dog's poo!)


We visited Tigre again for the art museum. With bad luck, we missed again because it was closed for maintainence for two weeks from Feb 1. We still felt fine to have one afternoon of fresher air and less bustle than Buenos Aires. There is also free boat trip organized by the government on that day (Friday) but it needs prior booking by email or phone. We also found a free concert by an old bandoneónist, Dion Saluzzi, playing with a band in that beautiful museum on feb 10, but we shall be gone by then.


We rushed back to buy lomo in BsAs, it was not easy to find meat shop with good price in the Palermo area. We walked over ten blocks and finally went back to the meat store with red wall near the apartment. We got lomo costing 46 peso per kg.


We finally went home at 8pm. Cooking of beef won't take long, but a little tricky for seven persons with different favorite level of meat done. With consideration that the lomo was brought out from the chilled room and in thick cut, I browned them on a pan, then thrown all into the oven. They turned out to be medium to medium done, with some juice spilled out but the meat was still tender. I also used the beef juice as sauce for a large tray of tomato spaghetti. All food was gone, everyone was extremely full and fulfilling! But actually, I don't think we would mind just another piece of lomo. It's so tender, meaty and its rich aroma was completed with the Mendoza Malbec selected by Eva and Nathelie.


Es bueno lomo! Es bueno vino!